Emulsifier Alfa
Description
Alfa Emulsifier - Oleo-Gels, Cold Process Emulsions, and Transformable Textures
Alfa Emulsifier is a special ingredient that functions as an emulsifier, thickening agent, and moisturizer. Designed exclusively for Cold Process processing, it allows for the creation of interesting textures: from transparent oil gels to milk-type emulsions. It has the ability to transform vegetable oils into oleo-gels which, upon contact with water, emulsify instantly and rinse off without leaving a greasy feel, while providing long-lasting hydration.
Ingredients (INCI): Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate.
Technical Characteristics
- Origin: 100% natural, derived from sugar and vegetable oils.
- Appearance: Viscous liquid, slightly yellowish, opalescent.
- Emulsion type: Oil-in-Water (O/W)
Performance and Studies
Unlike classic emulsifiers, Alfa Emulsifier brings a series of technical and biological benefits confirmed through manufacturer tests:
- Long-Lasting Hydration: In vivo clinical studies have demonstrated that it improves skin hydration levels by up to 30% just 8 hours after application, maintaining a residual moisturizing effect even after 24 hours.
- Gentleness: Irritation tests indicate an exceptional safety profile, classified as non-irritating. It is ideal for products intended for mucous membranes (lips) or the hypersensitive skin of babies.
- "Transformation" Effect: Allows the formulation of products that change their texture during use (gel → oil → milk), facilitating deep yet delicate cleansing.
- Stability and Protection: Its ability to create lamellar structures helps stabilize sensitive vegetable oils against oxidation.
Main Properties
- Cold Process Emulsifier: Eliminates the need to heat the phases, protecting the integrity of oils and heat-sensitive actives.
- Gelling Agent for Oils: Creates transparent oil gels (oleogels) without using waxes or clays.
- Delicate Cleansing: Removes makeup and impurities, being extremely gentle on the skin's lipid barrier.
- Optimal Sensoriality: Although glycerin and oil-based, it leaves the skin silky and velvety after rinsing.
Usage Recommendations
General recommended dosage: 5% - 25%.
Recommended dosage 20-25% to create an oleo-gel (oil gel).
Recommended dosage 5-10% as a cold process emulsifier for O/W emulsions.
Applications
- Transformable cleansing balms and gels.
- Lightweight emulsions, fluid sprayable emulsions.
- Scrubs that emulsify upon rinsing, exfoliating gels.
- Milky bath oils and baby hygiene products.
- Face and body creams made through cold processing.
- Fine creams for babies and children.
Formulation Guide
- Critical Procedure: To obtain a transparent gel, place the Alfa Emulsifier in a vessel and add the oil phase drop by drop, stirring continuously and vigorously. If the oil is added too quickly, the gel will not form correctly.
- pH Range: Optimal between 4.0 and 8.0.
- Processing: Works at both room temperature and by heating up to 80ºC.
- Stability: Can tolerate a reasonable amount of electrolytes, an important property in formulating salt scrubs. It can gel vegetable oils, butters, esters, and silicones, forming clear crystalline gels.
PREPARING AN OLEO-GEL
- Generally, a 1:4 ratio is used, Alfa emulsifier: total oils (vegetable oils, melted butters, esters, silicones, non-polar lipids, fat-soluble active ingredients).
- The more oil added to the emulsifier, the more viscous the gel becomes. Using glycerin will slightly help decrease viscosity if necessary and the formula allows.
- Weigh the oils and the emulsifier in two separate containers. Proceed similarly to making mayonnaise. Start stirring the emulsifier, then, using a pipette, add a few drops of oils into the emulsifier and stir vigorously. Continue adding the oils little by little and continue stirring. The mixture will become increasingly viscous. As the gel thickens, you can start adding the oil in larger quantities, but do not add more until the previous portion is completely integrated. Once all the oils have been incorporated, a stable oil gel results.
- This gel can be used as is or as a base for a cleanser, makeup remover, or scrub, or it can constitute the oil phase of an emulsion.
PREPARING A COLD PROCESS EMULSION
- Use Alfa Emulsifier at 5-10% as part of the oil phase. Examples of emulsifier percentages in the oil phase of an emulsion:
20% oils + 6% emulsifier, 25% oils + 8% emulsifier, 30% oils + 10% emulsifier.
- First, prepare the oleo-gel as described above. Gradually add the aqueous phase into it with stirring. A thickening agent may be needed in the aqueous phase to provide greater viscosity, usually xanthan gum. Once the entire aqueous phase is incorporated, essential oil or fragrance and a suitable preservative can be added.
Examples of formulas with Alfa emulsifier:
Light cream | Micellar lotion | Oleo-gel | Emulgel textures

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why is my gel opaque and not transparent?
Transparency depends on adding the oil very slowly and on the type of oil used. Polarized oils (like Almond or Caprilis) work best.
Why did my product separate?
Most likely, the oil was added too quickly. The process requires patience; the first 10% of the oil amount must be incorporated extremely slowly to create the "core" of the emulsion.
Is adding a preservative necessary?
If you introduce additional water or aqueous extracts into the final formula, using a preservative is mandatory. In Oleo-gels, it is not necessary.
Safety in Use
Profile: Safe ingredient for use in cosmetics.
Precautions: Cosmetic use. Do not ingest.
Storage: In a cool and dry place, away from direct light. If stored cold, it is recommended to bring it to room temperature before use.
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