Emulsifier WOleate
Description
WOleate Emulsifier – Specialty for W/O Emulsions and Anhydrous Systems
WOleate is a non-ionic, 100% plant-based, and PEG-free emulsifier based on polyglycerol ester technology. With an HLB of approximately 4, it is a lipophilic ingredient specifically designed to form water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, delivering sensory textures with a flexible, silky protective film.
Ingredients (INCI): Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate.
Characteristics
- Appearance: Yellowish viscous liquid.
- Nature: Lipophilic emulsifier, HLB ≈ 4
- Mode of action: Works by absorption at the water/oil interface, reducing interfacial tension and forming a flexible film around water droplets.
- Stability: Stable to pH variations and in the presence of electrolytes (salts).
Main Properties
- Exceptional Sensory Experience: Forms a film that is smoother and more pleasant than anionic emulsifiers, delivering particularly fine textures. Very gentle on sensitive skin and the microbiome, making it ideal for “baby care” products.
- Flawless dispersion: Ideal for wetting and uniformly dispersing mineral filters (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide) and pigments in makeup.
- Thermal versatility: Allows for hot processing, but can also be used in cold systems, subject to proper structuring of the oil phase.
- High compatibility: Works excellently with triglycerides, esters, plant-based silicones, and natural waxes.
- Protective barrier: Ideal for natural, PEG-free formulations focused on restoring the lipid barrier. Creates a fine occlusive barrier that locks in moisture and repels external aggressors.
Applications
- Balms: Anhydrous skincare systems, ointments, body oils, body butters.
- W/O Creams: Barrier creams for hands and face, rich nourishing creams, ideal for baby care or very dry skin. Sunscreens with mineral filters. Regenerating night creams and cold creams. Baby products (anti-irritation creams).
- Stick-type products: Anhydrous systems, lip oils, solid balms.
- Biphasic products: Facilitates rapid emulsification upon shaking.
Formulation Guide
- Recommended dosage: 1–15%. As a pigment dispersant or co-emulsifier for water resistance: 1%–3%. As the primary emulsifier in creams: 4%–6%. In anhydrous products to improve sensory properties: 5%–15%.
- Procedure: Always add to the oil phase. Oil phase percentage: 20–65%. Allows for hot processing, but can also be used in cold systems, provided the oil phase is properly structured. When preparing emulsions, the aqueous phase is added to the oil phase very slowly, drop by drop, under continuous stirring.
- Limitations: Not suitable as a primary emulsifier for O/W (oil-in-water) systems or for high aqueous phases without a robust co-emulsifier. It is recommended for use as a secondary emulsifier or co-emulsifier.
- Processing: Without heating, the system may exhibit lower viscosity and poor stability if compatible structuring agents or co-emulsifiers are not used. For optimal results and stable performance, the manufacturer recommends hot processing.
- Stability: Olive emulsifying wax (Sorbitan Olivate) can be used to create the necessary structural matrix. High-melting-point waxes or oil-based gelling agents that prevent greasiness can be used. Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) should be used in the aqueous phase. Stability critically depends on the viscosity of the oil phase and the presence of thickening agents. Requires moderate to high shear mixing for proper interfacial organization. Optimal pH range: 4.5–7.5.
Safety in Use
Profile: Non-toxic, non-sensitizing, and skin microbiome-friendly product. Ideal for products intended for delicate areas.
Precautions: Product intended exclusively for external cosmetic use. Keep out of reach of children. Avoid direct contact with eyes. Do not ingest.
Storage: Store in the original packaging, protected from light and moisture.
Bibliography and Sources
Documentation and technical information provided by the manufacturer.
CosIng - European Commission Database for Cosmetic Substances and Ingredients.
Technical literature on natural cosmetic ingredients.
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