Panthenol
Description
Panthenol – Provitamin B5 – moisturizing, soothing, strengthening
Panthenol is a highly valued humectant in modern cosmetic formulations. Once applied to the skin or hair, it attracts and retains water, leaving an immediate feeling of softness and comfort.
It is a versatile ingredient: in facial formulations, it supports skin hydration and comfort, while in hair products, it contributes to a stronger hair shaft, shine, and a silky feel, being one of the few active ingredients that effectively bind to the hair fiber.
Ingredients (INCI): Panthenol, Aqua, Citric acid
Technical Characteristics
- Appearance: Clear, slightly yellowish liquid; practically odorless
- Solubility: Completely miscible with water, ethanol, and glycols; insoluble in oils and fats
- Quality: Aqueous solution of D-panthenol with a minimum content of 75% active substance; biologically active D-form
- Recommended Dosage: 0.5 - 5%, depending on the formulation type and desired moisturizing effect
Scientific Studies and Documentation
Panthenol is well documented in dermato-cosmetic literature for its role as a powerful humectant: it penetrates the stratum corneum, where it is enzymatically converted into pantothenic acid, a component of coenzyme A involved in cellular metabolism. This conversion explains both its long-lasting moisturizing effect and the feeling of comfort imparted to dry or sensitive skin.
In hair care, panthenol shows strong affinity for the hair fiber, which it partially penetrates, contributing to a stronger structure, improved combability, and enhanced shine, effects documented in numerous formulation studies for hair care products.
Properties and Benefits
- Powerful humectant with visible and long-lasting moisturizing effects
- Contributes to the feeling of comfort for dry or sensitive skin
- Supports skin suppleness and elasticity
- For hair: strengthens the strand structure, improves combability, and imparts shine
- Good skin tolerance, suitable even for sensitive skin
Applications
- Hydrating creams, lotions, and serums for the face
- Shampoos, conditioners, and hair treatments for strengthening and shine
- Shower gels and cleansing products as an added conditioning agent
- Nail care products for hydration and flexibility
- Makeup products as a nourishing ingredient added to the formula
Formulation Guide
- Tolerates moderate heating (up to ~70°C for short periods), but addition during the cooling phase below 40°C is recommended to prevent any risk of degradation
- Stable across a pH range of 4 - 7
- Low concentrations (0.5 - 1%): suitable for shampoos and cleansing products for a subtle effect
- Medium concentrations (1 - 3%): frequently used in creams, lotions, and hair conditioners
- Higher concentrations (3 - 5%): used in intensive serums and treatments; above this level, the texture may become slightly tacky in leave-on products
Usage Safety and Storage
- Profile: Safe ingredient with good skin tolerance
- Precautions: External cosmetic use
- Storage: Store in a closed container in a cool, dry place, protected from light
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