Formula: 32768 Difficulty Level: intermediate Shelf life: min. 3 months Optimal pH: 5.5-6.0 Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 100 g A Olive-Silicone 15 15 g A Triheptanoin 5 5 g A MonCrem 202...
Hyaluronic acid HMW
€5.19
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€4.36
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Description
HMW Hyaluronic Acid - High Molecular Weight
HMW Hyaluronic Acid (high molecular weight) acts primarily on the surface of the epidermis, where it forms an invisible, continuous, non-occlusive film. This hygroscopic layer has the ability to capture and retain moisture from the atmosphere, significantly reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The result of application is an immediate smoothing effect on fine lines caused by dehydration, a visible increase in surface elasticity, and a silky skin texture. In addition to its hydrating benefits, it is a remarkable texture modifier, imparting an elegant viscosity and a premium feel upon application to creams and serums.
Ingredients (INCI): Sodium Hyaluronate
Technical Characteristics
- Molecular Weight: High, situated between 1.0 and 1.6 MDa (Megadaltons).
- Appearance: Fine, granular powder, white in color, odorless.
- Solubility: Water-soluble. Dissolves in water forming a transparent and viscous gel (the process requires hydration time).
- Cosmetic function: Powerful humectant agent, protective film-former, viscosity and rheology modifier.
- Indicative dosage: 0.1% - 1%
Information from Specialized Literature
The physicochemical properties and topical behavior of Hyaluronic Acid are extensively studied:
- Localization at the Stratum Corneum Level: Spectroscopy studies confirm that high molecular weight hyaluronic acid molecules remain localized on the surface of the epidermis; their primary role is as a moisture-retaining barrier, unlike low molecular weight variants.
- Viscoelastic Film Formation: Specialized literature highlights the ability of hyaluronic acid to self-organize into a three-dimensional network that holds an amount of water hundreds of times greater than its own molecular weight. This viscoelastic film temporarily evened out skin micro-relief, providing a visibly plumper appearance.
- Efficacy in Reducing Dehydration: Dermatological clinical evaluations show that long-term application of cosmetic formulas optimizes the skin's barrier function, improving signs of roughness and flaking associated with dry or weather-exposed skin.
Main Properties
- Surface Ultra-Hydrator: Infuses the stratum corneum with water and prevents its rapid evaporation.
- Instant Smoothing Effect (Blurring): Attenuates the appearance of fine lines and surface wrinkles through intense hydration.
- Non-Occlusive Protective Barrier: Protects the skin against environmental aggressions (wind, air conditioning, pollution) without clogging pores.
- Sensoriality: Eliminates the sticky feel of traditional humectants (such as high percentages of glycerin), offering a silky slip to cosmetic compositions.
Applications
- Cosmetic ingredient recommended for creating a wide range of cosmetic products. Variants with different molecular weights can be used simultaneously in a formula for a synergistic effect.
- Hydrating gelled day and night serums.
- Anti-aging facial creams, lightweight gel-cream lotions, and makeup primers.
- Eye contour products intended to smooth and refresh the area.
- Hydrating body lotions, after-sun milk, and gentle shower gels.
- Premium facial toners and urban hydration sprays.
Formulation Guide
HMW Hyaluronic Acid is a polymer with specific dissolution dynamics. To avoid lump formation and ensure a clear gel, follow these instructions:
- "Slurry" Technique - recommended: Premix the Hyaluronic Acid powder with a small amount of Glycerin or Propanediol to form a paste; this suspension can then be easily incorporated into any formula.
- "Pre-formed Gel" Technique: Sprinkle the Hyaluronic Acid powder onto the surface of the distilled water (or hydrosol) in the formula at room temperature for passive hydration. Do not stir immediately. Allow the mixture to rest for 30 to 60 minutes. The powder will absorb water gradually and dissolve on its own, forming a homogeneous and translucent gel that subsequently requires only simple stirring. This technique is suitable for formulas where the addition of glycerin or propanediol is not planned.
- Procedure in Emulsions: It is recommended to add the pre-formed gel or the hyaluronic acid "slurry" paste in the final phase, at temperatures below 40°C.
- Rheological sensitivity: The gel network formed by the HMW polymer is sensitive to prolonged mechanical shear and the presence of mineral salts or strong acids (which can liquefy the gel). Maintain the pH of the formula between 5.0 and 7.0.
Safety in Use and Storage
Safety Profile: Safe, non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-comedogenic ingredient of biotechnological origin, suitable for all skin types.
Warnings: For external cosmetic use only. Avoid direct inhalation during weighing. Keep out of reach of children.
Storage: In a tightly closed container, in a dry, cool place, strictly protected from moisture.
Scientific References
- Pavicic, T., Gauglitz, G. G., Lersch, P., et al. (2011). Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology.
- Essendoubi, M., Gobinet, C., Reynaud, R., et al. (2016). Human skin penetration of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights as probed by Raman spectroscopy. Skin Research and Technology.
- Bukhari, S. N. A., Roswandi, N. L., Waqas, M., et al. (2018). Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomacromolecule: A review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules.
Details
Code
D-1374
Categories
Status
Suitable for organic cosmetics
Suitable for
bath, cosmetics, sun protection
Key benefits
anti-wrinkle, densifying, moisturizing, protector, reparative, skin tonic, wound healing
Specific indications
eczema, atopic skin, scars, wrinkles, fine lines
Skin care
Eye Creams, Face creams, Serums, Shave/aftershave, Toners, Treatments
Skin type
All types
Body care
Creams Emulsions, Hand creams
Kids
Creams
Sun Care
After sun products
Solubility
in water
Use level
0.1 - 1.0 %
Storage
sensitive to moisture store in a cool dry place in well closed packaging
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Used for a few years in face serum with hyaluronic ac.hialuronic and niacinamide, in vit C serum, added in eye & face creams. Super satisfied.
Hyaluronic Acid HMW - I like it because I can form nice gel like texture. I usually mix it with the other types of hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid HMW together with hyaluronic acid LMW are a duo of skin moisturizers that are indispensable in most of the face emulsions I formulate.Together with glycerine, they ensure their anti-wrinkle effect.
I use it because it improves skin texture, long-term use has made the skin firmer and more elastic
a very good and useful moisturizer. Used especially in the evening it leaves my pelea moisturized, and in the morning it doesn't tighten anymore
I like this product very much because it diminishes the appearance of fine lines and confer an excellent improvement to the appearance of the complexion.
Moisturizer that ensures perfect hydration, the complexion becoming smooth, bright.Utilizat in anti-wrinkle creams is a natural moisturizing factor suitable for different skin types.Recomand.
I use it in a serum in combination with the other two types of hyaluronic acid and it's amazing.
Appreciated as an ideal natural moisturizing factor, used extensively in cosmetics, it is suitable for different skin types, climates and environments. HMW type has functions such as slow-release moisturization, skin regeneration and skin lubrication, forms a dense and breathable protective layer on the skin surface, imparts a great sensory experience on the skin
I don't like it as much as LMW, as it doesn't dissolve as quickly and well, but it's ok.
The contents of one tube I used it on one day cream and I can say that it feels the complexion breathing. I am waiting to experiment it in other formulas. Certainly the complexion feels the difference. I will add it to my cart again.
Really a delight for the skin! And a very high quality ingredient, not missing in our products!
AN INDISPENSABLE PRODUCT FOR GOOD MOISTURIZATION, WHICH IS VITAL FOR A SKIN THAT WANTS TO BE REJUVENATED. VISIBLE RESULTS.
An extraordinarily important active ingredient but also easy to use and versatile. I also like to use it in facial serums because of the benefits to the complexion but also the thickening ability of the formulas. The serum created with this ingredient absorbs quickly and leaves no sticky residue.
A VERY GOOD PRODUCT, WHICH I HAVE BEEN USING FOR A LONG TIME IN THE SERIES THAT I USE. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND.
Hyaluronic acid is an essential active in my serums, it is easy to work with and the results are visible.
I have fallen in love with this hyaluronic acid, I use it in the whole range of products. HIGHLY RECOMMEND!
I use HMW hyaluronic ac.hyaluronic especially in face creams .I have also used it when making face serums but it is harder to incorporate.