Formula: 20411 Difficulty level: experienced Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 4.5 - 4.8 Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr A Moringa Oil 15 7,5 gr A Emulsifier Emulsan 3 1,5 gr A Cetearyl...
Azelaic acid
€4.08
(VAT included)
€3.43
(without VAT)
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Description
Azelaic Acid - Control of Imperfections, Redness, and Hyperpigmentation
Azelaic Acid is prized for its multifunctional "all-in-one" action. Azelaic Acid not only exfoliates, but also normalizes cell keratinization, combats target bacteria, and soothes inflammation. It is the go-to ingredient for formulations designed for oily skin prone to imperfections, as well as for reactive skin exhibiting chronic redness or post-inflammatory spots.
A cosmeceutical ingredient used in anti-aging, anti-acne formulations, fading of spots and imperfections, evening out skin tone, improving skin appearance and texture, and achieving a brighter, more radiant complexion.
It is a naturally derived dicarboxylic acid, normally found in grains such as wheat, rye, and barley, but also on human skin as a product of the skin flora's metabolism.
Ingredients (INCI): Azelaic Acid.
Technical Characteristics
- Appearance: Fine crystalline powder, white in color.
- Solubility: Poorly soluble in water, moderately soluble in glycols (Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol).
- Recommended dosage: 0.5% - 10%
Information from Specialized Literature
The properties of Azelaic Acid are supported by clinical and biochemical research in aesthetic dermatology:
- Comedolytic and Antikeratinizing Effect: Specialized literature shows that azelaic acid reduces keratin synthesis inside the pilosebaceous follicle. By normalizing the division rate of corneocytes, it prevents the formation of sebum plugs and clogged pores, attacking the primary cause of comedones.
- Selective Inhibition of Melanocytes: Biochemical studies show that this molecule has the ability to act as a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase, but its action is selective: it targets hyperactive or abnormal melanocytes (responsible for melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), without bleaching the surrounding healthy skin.
- Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Redness: Clinical research indicates that it reduces the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and neutralizes reactive oxygen species (ROS), being a reference agent in fading the appearance of rosacea and couperose.
Main Properties
- Imperfection corrector: Visibly reduces the frequency of breakouts, blackheads, and microcysts.
- Fading of spots: Evens out skin tone by diminishing brown or reddish marks left behind by pimples.
- Soothing, anti-couperose: Diminishes diffuse redness and skin congestion in couperose-prone skin.
- Micro-relief refinement: Smooths rough skin texture, leaving pores with a visibly reduced appearance.
Applications
- It is a suitable cosmetic ingredient for anti-aging formulations, fading of spots and imperfections, evening out skin tone, improving skin appearance and texture, and anti-hair loss hair solutions.
- Concentrated serums and treatment lotions for oily or acne-prone skin.
- Day creams and anti-redness emulsions for sensitive/couperose-prone skin.
- Local "spot treatment" products for imperfections and pigment spots.
- Light cream-gels for mattifying and textural evening.
Formulation Guide and Synergies
Formulating with Azelaic Acid requires attention due to its low solubility. To avoid obtaining a final product with a granular or "sandy" texture, follow these recommendations:
- Method 1 (Dissolution): Dissolve the Azelaic Acid powder in a generous percentage of Propanediol (heated up to approx. 50-60°C), and the resulting solution is added to the water phase or at the end of the emulsion.
- Method 2 (Suspension): If a high dosage is used, part of the azelaic acid will remain in suspension. The use of a rheological agent (such as Xanthan Gum) is mandatory to keep the micro-crystals homogeneously suspended and prevent their sedimentation.
- pH Range: For efficacy and stability, the pH of the finished product should be maintained between 3.5 and 5.5.
- Synergies:
- Anti-Imperfections: Pairs well with Niacinamide and Prime Lotus Complex.
- Marine Biotechnology: Combines with Marine-Z for a response against inflammatory acne and unsightly shine, while balancing sebum secretion.
- Moisture Compensation: Alongside Hyaluronic Acid to retain water and counteract the associated temporary feeling of dryness.
- Soothing and Protection: Pairs with Allantoin or Bisabolol to ease any sensation sensitive skin might experience.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is Azelaic Acid an AHA or BHA type exfoliant?
No. Azelaic Acid belongs to the class of dicarboxylic acids. Unlike AHAs (lactic/glycolic) which chemically dissolve the bonds between dead cells on the surface, Azelaic Acid acts at a deeper level, regulating how cells are produced and divide inside the pore, acting as a cellular modulator rather than a classic acid peel.
Why is an itching or tingling sensation often felt immediately after application?
It is a documented physiological phenomenon. Azelaic Acid transiently activates certain nerve receptors in the epidermis. This sensation usually lasts 10-15 minutes and disappears completely after the first 2 weeks of use as the skin adapts. It does not indicate an allergic reaction, but rather the biological activity of the molecule.
How can I prevent a grainy texture in my Azelaic Acid creams?
A grainy texture occurs when the acid coarsely recrystallizes in water. The key is using Propanediol as a solvent and co-vehicle. By pre-dispersing and dissolving the powder in warm propanediol, you reduce particle size and ensure a fine rheological distribution.
Does it cause photosensitivity? Can it be used in summer?
Azelaic Acid is one of the few acids that does not cause skin photosensitivity and does not thin the stratum corneum in a way that increases the risk of sunburn. It can be safely used year-round. However, if the goal of the formula is to fade pigment spots, daily application of SPF is mandatory to prevent UV rays from reactivating melanin production.
Safety in Use
Precautions: For external cosmetic use only. Avoid direct contact with the sensitive area around the eyes, lips, and mucous membranes. In case of persistent excessive redness, reduce the concentration in the formula.
Storage: In the original, tightly closed packaging, in a dry, cool place, away from moisture.
Details
Code
D-1535
Categories
Suitable for
cosmetics, hair care
Key benefits
anti-inflammatory, purifying
Specific indications
acne, pimples, couperosis, rosacea, pigmentation spots, scars
Skin care
Cleansers, Exfoliators, Face creams, Serums, Treatments
Skin type
Acne prone, Combination, Oily
Body care
Creams Emulsions, Hand creams
Storage
sensitive to moisture store in a cool dry place in well closed packaging
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I would like to know if in the formulas it can be used at a PH of 5,or 5,5 as it says in the description .I would like to use it with niacinamide and I have seen that all the formulas you have have Ph below 5.and I am in doubt about the Ph value in the formulas.
I discovered this ingredient a little while ago and used it in my skincare products for my friend Claudia who has a complexion with small imperfections and it helped her a lot.
I recently tried this ingredient and I was very pleased with its effects. I highly recommend it.
It feels like a mattifying primer on the skin, which visually hides pores, makes it velvety and smooth. It is better to use the product at night and do not forget about sun protection.
Actually enjoyed to receive it, but as previously mentionned quite big grit. It could be an idea to buy it thinner. Hard to dissolve too with the impression of quick saturation in propanediol, need to be warm a long time before been dissolved.
I read a lot about the benefits of azelaic acid and decided to order it. But unfortunately was not able to correctly use it. I will still need to experiment with it.
Je l'ai acheté pour estomper mes ridules. Et mes imprécations, j'ai lu d'excellents avis sur cet actif. J'ai hâte de le tester
Conveniently packaged and sealed. The grit is quite big so I recommend crushing it prior to dissolving.
I took the recipe from here the first time I did not come out the 2nd hour I managed to melt which is done at a high temperature, after application you can see improvements I had traces of agnee
Thanks to its antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, azelaic acid has proven to be an effective treatment for acne, but it is also particularly useful for eliminating blackheads.
I have used this product in the preparation of different products and I was mega pleased with the result.
It leaves the skin moisturized, although at first I had itching sensation after 2 minutes everything was fine.