Azelain 10 Multifunction Cream
Formula: 20411 Difficulty level: experienced Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 4.5 - 4.8

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr
A Moringa Oil 15 7,5 gr
A Emulsifier Emulsan 3 1,5 gr
A Cetearyl alcohol 2 1 gr
B Pure/distilled water 48,8 24,4 gr
B Horsetail extract 5 2,5 gr
B Glyceryl caprylate 0,3 0,15 gr
B Softdermo Eco 3 1,5 gr
C Propanediol 10 5 gr
C Azelaic acid 10 5 gr
D Xanthan gum 0,3 0,15 gr
E Marine-Z 2 1 gr
E Allantoin 0,3 0,15 gr
E Bisabolol natural 0,3 0,15 gr

1. Add the ingredients of phases A, B and C to a heat-resistant beaker. Place phase C on the water bath first and stir frequently. When the azelaic acid has almost completely dissolved, the beaker is left in the water bath and the A and B phases are placed next to it and heated to 70°C.

2. When the A and B phases have reached 70°C they are removed from the heat. Phase C is left in the water bath, but the heat source is turned off.

3. Pour phase A over phase B, mixing in between, and mix until homogenised.

4. Immediately add the contents of phase C to phase A+B and homogenise. Without stopping mixing, sprinkle xanthan gum over the mixture and mix thoroughly.

5. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water to accelerate cooling, continuing to mix until a smooth, homogeneous emulsion is obtained.

6. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, or hand temperature, add the Phase E ingredients and blend.

7. Transfer the resulting composition to the dedicated container. The consistency will be final the next day.

A truly multi-purpose formula combining the benefits of azelaic acid with the properties of plant actives to help treat a multitude of skin problems.
The combination of ingredients improves skin texture, evens, blurs imperfections, works for a smoother, brighter and healthier looking complexion.
It is suitable for all skin types, especially for ageing, tired or acne-prone, rosacea-prone skin.
The cream can be applied once or twice a day (morning and evening) and sun protection is recommended during use. Do not apply to the eyelids. In case of sensitive skin, azelaic acid treatment is gradually introduced into the skincare routine.

Reviews

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Ellemental
19 Jun 2023
Hello Cristina, The proposed substitution can be carried out. Instead of 0.3% glyceryl caprylate + 3% softdermo eco include 0.6% cosgard. Adjust the amount of water to cover the difference. Due to the complexity of the recipe, without testing we cannot recommend including arbutin in the recipe. Have a sunny day!
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Ellemental
19 Jun 2023
Hello Eszter, The proposed substitution can be carried out. Instead of 0.3% glyceryl caprylate + 3% softdermo eco include 0.6% cosgard. Adjust the amount of water to cover the difference. Good luck!
E
Ellemental
19 Jun 2023
Hello Cristina, Yes, the proposed replacement can be carried out.
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Eszter S.
17 Jun 2023
Hello! Can you replace softdermo eco with cosgard? Thank you
C
Cristina M.
16 Jun 2023
Would changing Moringo oil for Caise oil be a good choice?
C
Cristina M.
16 Jun 2023
Hello. In this formula can Softdermo be replaced with another preservative? In addition it can be enriched with Arbutin? Thanks for all your help...!
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Ellemental
02 May 2023
Hello, The combination of the preservatives glyceryl caprylate 0.3% and softdermo eco 3% gives this cream a shelf life of at least 3 months.
I
Irina D.
27 Apr 2023
And this cream does not need a preservative? thank you very much for your answers
L
Linda B.
01 Feb 2023
Thank you SO MUCH for the quick reply. Have a nice day and thank you very much for the recipes.
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Ellemental N.
01 Feb 2023
Hello Linda, Horsetail extract can be replaced in the same proportion with gingko biloba extract or horsetail extract. Good luck!
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Linda B.
01 Feb 2023
Hello, I would like to ask you what I could replace the horsetail extract. Unfortunately I don't have it and I can't wait until my order comes in. Thank you in advance.
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Ellemental
24 Sep 2022
Hello! You can also use another vegetable oil according to your properties and preferences.
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Elena D.
22 Sep 2022
Hello! What can I replace Moringa oil with?