15 Jan 2025
Men's grooming recipes
Author: Ellemental
15
Soothing and moisturising aftershave
Formula: 34206 Difficulty level: medium Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 5.5-6.0

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr
A Caprilis oil 5 2,5 gr
A Kokum butter 5 2,5 gr
A Emulsifier Olliva 5 2,5 gr
B Linden water 30 15 gr
B Pure / distilled water 47,6 23,8 gr
B Urea cosmetic 2 1 gr
B Glycerine 4 2 gr
C Allantoin 0,3 0,15 gr
C Cypress essential oil 0,3 0,15 gr (4 drop)
C Peppermint essential oil 0,2 0,1 gr (3 drop)
C Cosgard 0,6 0,3 gr

1. Heat the ingredients of phases A and B separately to 70°C in a heat-resistant beaker on a water bath. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from heat.

2. Add the contents of phase A to phase B with mixing, continue mixing until smooth.

3. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water and blend until a smooth, glossy, homogeneous emulsion is formed.

4. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, add the Phase C ingredients and mix thoroughly until smooth.

5. Transfer the mixture to the dedicated container. The consistency will be final the next day.

The result is a light and smooth cream with a pleasantly refreshing fragrance. It contains moisturising, soothing and emollient ingredients, absorbs easily and leaves the skin velvety soft and cared for. Can be used after shaving or as a day cream.

Recipe products and accessories

Reviews

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E
Ellemental
07 Aug 2019
Hello! U ningredient with similar properties we don't have, but you can basically remove urea from the formula.
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L
Lena O.
06 Aug 2019
Hello, can cosmetic urea be replaced with something else?
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Ellemental
02 Nov 2018
Dear Vivien! Thank you for letting us know, we have corrected it quickly. Have a nice day!
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S
Szarka V.
01 Nov 2018
I found a small typo in the recipe and would like to clarify. It says to pour phase B slowly but steadily onto phase B. So which one should be poured into which one? Thanks in advance for your reply.
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C
Claudia C.
09 Apr 2018
Thank you very much!
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E
Ellemental
09 Apr 2018
Hello Claudia. You can use a vegetable oil with as light a texture as possible, such as hazelnut, macadamia, kukui, or rice oil.
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C
Claudia C.
08 Apr 2018
Hello! What can you replace caprilis oil with?
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E
Ellemental
16 Oct 2017
Instead of kokum butter you can use cocoa butter, possibly murumuru butter, and instead of cosgard you can use fragard, same amount.
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A
Alice
15 Oct 2017
What could I replace kokum butter with? Cosgard can be replaced with fragard?
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E
Ellemental
04 Feb 2015
Hello, The essential oil can be removed, you will increase the amount of plain water in the formula accordingly. We suggest reducing the total percentage of phase C, for allantoin we recommend about 0.8% in this case.
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ioana
03 Feb 2015
Hi, I would like to prepare this cream but I would like to make some modifications Shea 11% Olliva 6% floral water 50% plain water 25.9% C. green tea extract 4% alantonin 4% 1.5% cosgard 1.5% cosgard 0.6% Can the essential oil be omitted? Where should its quantity be introduced in phase A or B? Would the formula be ok? Thanks!
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Ellemental
21 Nov 2013
Raluca, Congratulations on the success of the cream and we are glad to hear that it has positive effects. It's a suitable composition for the cold season too, you can use a fattier oil indeed. The guaiac does its job :) Thanks for the feedback!
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R
Raluca
21 Nov 2013
Elemental, I prepared the recipe - it worked on the first try, you just need to be careful in following the steps. Husband only applies it twice after shaving, no need for additional applications. He is very satisfied, although he says he finds it a bit greasy. Plus, I use it as a day cream too. It's great, my red nose is now close to normal skin color (I guess from the guaiac). I'm thinking of redoing it exclusively for myself for the winter season, using a slightly more oily oil (argan/avocado/borago). thanks
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Ellemental
14 Oct 2013
Raluca, Hello, Due to the sensitivity of your skin, we suggest that you remove the cinnamon essential oil from the shaving gel recipe or possibly replace it with another essence. You can add up to 30 drops of bisabolol. This aftershave is basically a light, moisturizing cream, so you can use it as a day cream. You can remove the tonka absolute from the recipe and instead of it and fragonia essential oil you can use guaiac, added in phase C. Have a nice day!
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R
Raluca
14 Oct 2013
Hello My husband has a sensitive skin, which develops irritations after every shaving (more precisely his skin flakes and red dots appear). I would like to replace his commercial products with the hemp and cinnamon shaving gel (to which I would add bisabolol) and this after shave. I would like to know if this aftershave can be used as a regular day cream. In addition, I would like to remove the tonka absolute and replace the essential oil of fragonia with guaiac essential oil. Is this possible? Thank you
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