Rejuvenating serum Azelaic + Arbutin
Formula: 20423 Difficulty level: medium Shelf life: min 2 months pH optimal: 4.2 - 4.5

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr
A Cornflower Water 73,9 37 gr
A Allantoin 0,3 0,15 gr
A Ginkgo biloba extract 10 5 gr
A Arbutin 1 0,5 gr
A Arginine 1 0,5 gr
A Xanthan gum 0,2 0,1 gr
B Cosgard 0,6 0,3 gr
C Propanediol 8 4 gr
C Azelaic acid 5 2,5 gr

1. In a heat-resistant glass add the ingredients of phase C and place on a water bath. Stir often and heat until the azelaic acid has completely dissolved.

2. In the meantime, in another beaker add the ingredients of phase A one at a time and mix. Allow the composition to stand for gelling, then add phase B and mix thoroughly.

3. Over phase C add the A+B composition and mix thoroughly, avoiding excess air.

4. The serum thus obtained is transferred to the dedicated container. The consistency will be final on the following day.

A serum composed of ingredients with anti-wrinkle, anti-oxidant, anti-ageing properties, which improves the appearance and tone of the skin, combats signs of ageing and works to even out skin colour, achieving a brighter, more radiant complexion. It is suitable for all skin types, with a preference for mature, tired, toneless, congested, uneven, dull skin.
Apply once a day in the evening. Sun protection is recommended during treatment with azelaic acid.

Reviews

K
Kharatishvili Maka
06 Jun
Hello. At this point you don't have bamboo powder, what can I use instead?
E
Ellemental.com
07 Jun
Hi! Arginine is a good replacement in this formulation.
E
Ellemental
13 May 2024
Hello Katalin, Although none of the ingredients in the above serum and the cream you mentioned are contraindicated and both have a brightening effect on facial skin, if you have a couperose complexion, we recommend, if you have a couperose complexion, to prepare small amounts of both cosmetic formulas and test them on your skin before long-term use. The proposed replacement refers to the serum above.
K
Katalin K.
10 May 2024
I apologize for bothering you again,but I didn't understand in which preparation you mean to replace arbutin with kojic acid,in this serum or in the Clear skin cream?And I would like to ask you if it is ok to use the 2 recipes at the same time for anti aging,light cuperoxic effect and for brightening the complexion?(I don't have age spots).Thank you,you are wonderful!
E
Ellemental
09 May 2024
Hello Katalin, Arbutin, among other things, has a brightening and whitening effect on the skin, reduces the appearance of age spots and hyperpigmentation, limits the formation of freckles. To maintain this quality of the cream, we recommend replacing arbutin with kojic acid, maintaining the percentage of 1%, i.e. the addition phase, i.e. phase C. Finally, we recommend checking the pH and adjusting it if necessary. Have an easy day!
K
Katalin K.
08 May 2024
Hello!I would like to ask you for some advice.I want to prepare this serum and use it before the Clear skin-cream with arbutin.Since both have arbutin,I would like to replace it with another ingredient.Could I use for example bakuchiol instead of arbutin?If not,can you help me with what else I could replace it with?some examples? Thank you very much!
E
Ellemental
23 Jan 2024
Hello Alexandra, Due to the low pH of this serum, Softdermo Eco is not the optimal choice for preservation. We recommend you try our new mild preservative, Preservative Bs, using 1% in the formulas. If you have sensitive skin, we recommend testing in the crease of your elbow before applying to the face. Have a sunny day!
A
Alexandra G.
19 Jan 2024
Hello! Can the Cosgard preservative be replaced with Softdermo or another preservative? Unfortunately on my skin Cosgard is not suitable. Thanks!
E
Ellemental
26 Jun 2023
Hi Cristina, You can increase the concentration of azelaic acid to 15% by proportionally increasing the amount of propanediol. Subtract the additional amounts from the floral water. All the best!
C
Cristina M.
20 Jun 2023
Regarding acne problems. .from my information I know that for such conditions different products containing azelaic acid with concentrations between 15-20% have been recommended. So, if the skin tolerated the 10% concentration, I want to raise it up to 15%, not more. Having said that, does formula 1473 allow me to do this without the risk of destabilizing it?
C
Cristina M.
20 Jun 2023
Hello. Pfff I'm so embarrassed for bothering you again, but I can't, I love d stră recipes so much, they make me experiment all the time. I made this serum in which I replaced the blueberry water with immortelle water and the ginkgo biloba extract with nalba extract, it's wonderful! But I want to help a lady who is struggling with acne vulgaris, she has received countless treatments without much results. So please give a little help on a care routine for this. M have come up with the following recipes: Clenser with Glycoli, Purifying Tonic Water(acne-prone complexion), introduction of Azelaic 10 cream in the morning under the Sunscreen Cream and in the evening Azelaic + Arbutin Rejuvenating Serum. Do you recommend this skincare process? On another note, the lady would like the serum to have the maximum concentration of arbutin and azelaic acid. Could we modify the recipe in this regard? Thank you once again, and last but not least with many apologies for the countless insistences!
E
Ellemental N.
20 Mar 2023
Kedves Betti, A bambuszpornak alkanizáló szerepe van ebben a receptben. A niacinamid nem já já járul hozzá a szérum alkalizálálásához, valamint a niacinamidnak legkedvezőbb pH közeg 5-7,5 között mozog. Ennek a szérumnak a végleges pH tartománya ellenben 4,2-4,5 között ajánlott. Szépép napot kívánunk!
K
Kozma b.
19 Mar 2023
Kedves Elemental csapat, Kerdesem, hogy mivel nincs itthon bambuszpor, mehet-e bele helyette niaciamid? Vagy mit ajanlananak? Koszonettel, Kozma Betti
C
Cornelia P.
01 Dec 2022
Hello Can fragard be used instead of cosgard?
C
Carmen P.
13 Nov 2022
I prepared the serum, and it looked ok, but the next day it separates and stays on the bottom and remains thicker and liquid on top. What happened? Thanks!
E
Ellemental
23 Jul 2022
Hello! You can use the serum and the cream at the same time, but keep an eye on your skin's reaction to be on the safe side, especially if it is sensitive.
V
Vasilica L.
19 Jul 2022
Hello, For an intensive anti-spot treatment, can I apply the arbutin cream from your prescription after this serum? In total there would be 3% arbutin between the serum and the cream. Is this percentage too high?
E
Ellemental
20 May 2022
Dear Betti, we cannot predict the success of such a modification without testing, but it is worth trying it in small quantities.
K
Kozma b.
19 May 2022
Dear Elemental, I would like to ask if azelaic acid can be substituted with kojic acid in this recipe, or perhaps with a little modification with BHA? Thank you in advance, Betti Kozma
E
Ellemental
02 May 2022
You can use Arginine or bicarbonate, but we cannot predict the amount needed. Add a little bit at a time. Mix well and measure the pH, add more if necessary.
B
Buzatu M.
30 Apr 2022
I do not have bamboo powder, but I have arginine and bicarbonate, if it is possible to make the proposed replacement with one of the two, and if so, what quantity? Thank you very much!