Salicylic + Azelaic Cream
Formula: 20412 Difficulty level: experienced Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 4.2 - 4.5

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr
A Milk thistle oil 15 7,5 gr
A Emulsifier Liqua 3 1,5 gr
A Co-emulsifier Glycemul 1,5 0,75 gr
B Pure / distilled water 56 28 gr
B Xanthan gum 0,2 0,1 gr
C Propanediol 10 5 gr
C Azelaic acid 10 5 gr
D BHA natural Salicylic Acid 2,5 1,25 gr
D Chamomille essential oil 0,2 0,1 gr (3 drop)
D Bamboo Powder 1 0,5 gr
D Cosgard 0,6 0,3 gr

1. Add the ingredients of phases A, B and C to a heat-resistant glass.

2. Place phase C on the water bath first and stir often. When the azelaic acid has almost completely dissolved, leave the beaker in the water bath and place the A and B phases next to each other and heat until they reach a temperature of 70°C.

3. When the A and B phases have reached 70°C they are removed from the heat. Phase C is left warm, but the heat source is turned off.

4. Pour phase B over phase A, mixing in between, and mix until homogenised.

5. Immediately add the contents of phase C to A+B and mix until smooth. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water to accelerate cooling, continuing to mix until a uniform and stable emulsion is formed.

6. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, or hand temperature, add the Phase D ingredients and homogenise

7. Transfer the resulting composition to the dedicated container. The consistency will be final the next day.

Modern formula combining the benefits of salicylic acid, azelaic acid, armouraria oil and chamomile essential oil for a cream that improves visible imperfections, dull and uneven complexion, signs of ageing or post-acne, refines pores, while soothing, nourishing and repairing the skin.
The cream is suitable for all skin types, especially mature, dull, tired, combination/oily skin with acne-prone skin.
It can be applied once or twice a day (morning and evening) and sun protection is recommended during use. Do not apply to the eyelids. In case of sensitive skin, azelaic acid treatment is gradually introduced into the skincare routine.

Reviews

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Ellemental
15 Jul 2024
Hello Ioana, A high percentage of active cosmetic ingredients added in phase D may cause destabilization of the cream. To ensure its stability, it is recommended to increase the percentage of xanthan gum to 0.3% when adding cosmetic active ingredients up to 6%. Good luck!
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Ioana M.
12 Jul 2024
Hello, can I use salicylic acid 4%? Thanks in advance !
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ivascu m.
27 May 2024
Thank you very much for your answer!I was thinking of adding arginine to increase the Ph of the proposed formula to 5, so that both azelaic acid and niacinamide would be stable!Do you think it would be a good idea?Thank you again!
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Ellemental
13 May 2024
Hello, You can add 3% ceramides in phase A by adjusting the percentage of oil used. Niacinamide is not recommended in this recipe, as the optimal pH range for this cosmetic active is between 5.0-7.5. To ensure the stability of the cream, it is recommended to increase the percentage of xanthan gum to 0.3% when adding cosmetic active ingredients up to 6%. Good luck!
i
ivascu m.
09 May 2024
Hello!Based on this formula I would like to make some modifications, to put ceramide 3% in phase A, niacinamide 2% in phase B and phase D a total of 6% active ingredients (panthenol, coenz q10, hyaluronic acid Oligo and HMW, bisabolo, allantoin, cosgard).I am afraid that there are too many ingredients in phase D, the percentage of 6% being too high!Should I increase the amount of emulsifier, co-emulsifier, xanthan for more stability of the formulation?Thank you very much!Congratulations for all you do!
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Ellemental
14 Jul 2023
Hello Rafaela, For your convenience, the amounts in the recipes are expressed in grams instead of ml. We recommend using a precision scale for accurate measurement.
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Rafaela H.
13 Jul 2023
Hello, how to measure in grams the liquid ingredients?
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Ellemental
12 Jul 2023
Hello Cristina, Following the final consistency of the cream, in our opinion it is too fit for a bottle. If you find the cream easier to use out of the bottle, we recommend you try one of the following variants: Airless Aurora 50 ml or Airless Oly 50 ml.
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Ellemental
12 Jul 2023
Hello Cristina, The recipe being a complex one, and having a rather low pH, apart from raising the percentage of azelaic acid + propanediol, without tests we cannot recommend you to make any other changes.
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Cristina M.
11 Jul 2023
In addition please suggest a bottle for this recipe. Thank you!
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Cristina M.
11 Jul 2023
Hello. As I am about to place a new order, please help me :) (to know which products to purchase).A short while ago you confirmed that I can increase the percentage of azelaic acid up to 15% , I refer to the Azelaic 10 recipe. But,speaking of an acne-prone complexion, I want to try this recipe with salicylic acid and azelaic acid, only after you tell me that I can or cannot do the same. With thanks!
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Ellemental
16 May 2023
Hi Ioana, Due to the complexity of the recipe, in this case we do not recommend the proposed changes.
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Ioana I.
10 May 2023
Hello. I have two questions. Can azelaic acid be dissolved in glycerin instead of propanediol? Can cetearyl alcohol be used instead of glycem? I found it mentioned in the liqua emulsifier leaflet.
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Cornelia P.
14 Nov 2022
Hello! What other oil can be used to replace the armorarium oil? Thank you!
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Ellemental
01 Apr 2022
Hello! Sure, the cream can be used in such applications. All the best!
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Teodorescu G.
25 Mar 2022
Hello, can I make this cream for a 15 year old teenager? With acne and acne after marks. Thank you!
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Ellemental
18 Feb 2022
Hello! To change the emulsifier the whole formula needs to be rethought, so we can't recommend. Cucumber extract can be added, about 5% in phase B by decreasing the water dosage accordingly.
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Estera E.
13 Feb 2022
Hi I would like to replace Liqua with emulsifier, and add cucumber, tell me in what quantities, and in what phase cucumber.
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Ellemental
16 Aug 2021
Hello! The tingling sensation is normal, being an azelaic acid treatment. If the skin is not irritated and there are no other discomforts, continue using the cream. Changing the armurarium oil with neem oil is fine, it does not influence the reported appearance.
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Ileana A.
13 Aug 2021
Hello, I prepared the recipe substituting neem oil for armorarium oil, I thought it is beneficial for problem skin. When I apply the cream on my face, about an hour or two, I feel a kind of tingling, but the skin doesn't turn red.Did I do wrong by substituting the oil or is it because of the azelaic acid?Thank you for all the wonderful recipes and advice.