Ovem Wax
Description
Ovem Wax – W/O Emulsifier, Multifunctional
Ovem Wax derived from olive oil fatty acids, is used to create Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsions or as a texturizing agent and co-emulsifier in Oil-in-Water (O/W) formulas. Its structure imparts a high affinity for lipids and mineral powders, making it an excellent dispersing agent for pigments and sunscreen filters, while providing emulsions with pronounced hydrophobic barrier properties, long-lasting emolliency, and water resistance.
It exhibits high biocompatibility with human sebum lipids. The film formed on the epidermal surface is non-occlusive, yet significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), restoring skin flexibility. It brings multifunctional benefits as a powder and pigment dispersant, lipogel agent, water-resistance additive, and functional lipid.
Former name: Olive Emulsifying Wax
Ingredients (INCI): Sorbitan Olivate.
Technical Characteristics
- Emulsifier Type: Non-ionic, strongly lipophilic.
- Appearance: Off-white to yellowish waxy flakes, faint characteristic odor.
- HLB Value: ~4.7
- Solubility: Soluble in oils upon heating.
- Indicative Dosage: 1% - 20%.
Main Properties
- W/O Emulsifier: Enables the creation of rich, protective creams in which the external oil phase makes first contact with the skin.
- High-Performance Dispersant: Stabilizes suspensions of mineral sunscreen filters and pigments within the lipid phase, reducing uneven coloring effects.
- Water Resistance: Forms a hydrophobic film resistant to washing or perspiration, making it ideal for sunscreens and barrier creams.
- Textural Modifier, Emollient: Provides textures with a creamy, rich consistency, prolonged massage time, and a velvety, protective finish.
Applications
- Nourishing night creams, facial massage creams, and dense balms for dry or mature skin.
- Barrier creams against weather factors - winter creams, cold cream.
- Formulations for baby skin care, especially protective diaper creams.
- Water-resistant mineral sunscreen products.
- Creamy and compact makeup products (foundations, lipsticks, concealers).
Formulation Guide
- Procedure: Olive emulsifying wax is added to the oil phase of the formulation. Heat the mixture to a temperature of 70°C - 75°C until it becomes clear. Heat the aqueous phase separately to the same temperature.
- Emulsification Technique: To form a stable W/O emulsion, pour the hot water phase gradually in a thin stream over the hot oil phase under continuous high-speed stirring. Never pour the oil phase over the water and do not pour all the water at once, as you risk phase inversion or instantaneous oil separation. Intense mechanical stirring must be maintained throughout the pouring process and in the initial cooling phase, followed by gentle manual stirring until complete solidification.
- Need for Stabilizers: W/O emulsions are delicate regarding the stabilization of internal water droplets; therefore, it is mandatory to add 0.5% - 1% of a mineral salt (such as Magnesium Sulfate / Epsom salt or pure table salt / NaCl) to the aqueous phase.
- Optimal Oil Phase: 50-60% for W/O emulsions.
- Recommended Dosage by Application: 5-8% in W/O emulsions, 1-10% as a powder dispersant, 1-20% as a lipogel agent, 1-3% as a functional lipid, 1-2% as an O/W co-emulsifier, 2-3% as a W/O or W/S co-emulsifier.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Why did the water completely separate from the oil as soon as I stopped the mixer?
This issue occurs due to three common causes: either the water phase was poured too quickly, the stabilizing salt was omitted from the water phase, or there was insufficient mixing. W/O emulsions require high mechanical shear to break water into stable microdroplets inside the oil. Restart the process by pouring the water phase slowly, drop by drop, under maximum mixing.
Can I use this wax to obtain a light, fast-absorbing moisturizing cream?
It is not recommended as a primary emulsifier for this purpose. Due to its low HLB, it forms emulsions where the oil is on the outside. These creams natively have a rich, greasy, protective texture that absorbs slowly and leaves a hydrophobic film, making them ideal for night use or very dry skin. If you want a light day cream (O/W type), use hydrophilic emulsifiers like Olliva, Liqua, Moncrem 202, Vegemuls, or Bella, and use this wax only in small percentages as a co-emulsifier and multifunctional emollient.
Safety in Use and Storage
Safety Profile: Safe raw material with good dermatological tolerance.
Precautions: For external cosmetic use only.
Storage: In a closed container, in a dry and cool place.
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