Name: Evena wax
SKU: D-1822

Description

Evena Wax - The Secret to Perfect, Non-Grainy Textures

Evena Wax is an advanced, high-performance, natural, and vegan functional ingredient specially designed to solve one of the biggest challenges in formulating anhydrous (water-free) products: uncontrolled fat crystallization.

This wax is your go-to solution for fixing issues like crystallization, graininess, white layers, and blooming (efflorescence), preventing aesthetic defects in anhydrous products such as sticks and balms. By maintaining a network of small, homogeneous crystals, it ensures a smooth texture, superior shine, and exceptional thermal stability in the finished product.

Beyond structural stability, it offers remarkable sensory benefits, improving glide, spreadability, and color pay-off, while boasting proven hydration and skin barrier protection capabilities.

It is essential for anyone aiming to achieve professional-quality solid cosmetic products. It is the ideal ingredient to transform a lip balm or an artisanal stick into a product with an impeccable, smooth, and long-lasting finish.

Ingredients: Polyglyceryl-3 Tetrastearate

Characteristics

Presentation: Off-white flakes/granules with a characteristic scent.
Solubility: Liposoluble (added to the oil/fat phase). Compatible with vegetable oils, esters, silicones, and butters.
Quality: 100% natural origin (ISO 16128), Vegan, approved for use in natural and organic cosmetics.

Tests and Clinical Studies - Technical Performance

The ingredient's efficacy was evaluated by the manufacturer:

Deep Hydration: In a study involving 20 subjects, a simple stick formulation with 15% Evena Wax demonstrated a significant improvement in skin hydration starting from the very first application.
TEWL Reduction: Tewameter tests (n=20) showed that this solid lipid acts as an effective film-forming agent, significantly diminishing transepidermal water loss with efficiency comparable to conventional waxes.

Main Properties

Crystallization Control: Prevents fats from migrating to the surface, eliminating the risk of non-uniformities. It stops white spots or grainy textures from forming in natural butter and wax-based products, providing stable sensory and visual properties.
Texture Control: Prevents a silky texture from turning sandy (gritty) over time-a common phenomenon in products rich in vegetable butters. It optimizes light reflection on the product's surface, providing a professional, glossy finish.
Premium Feel - Gliding & Pay-off: Considerably improves the product's glide on the skin and facilitates the transfer of color or active substances (superior pay-off effect).
Thermal Stability: Enhances the resistance of stick-type products to high temperatures, preventing excessive softening or "sweating."
Barrier & Hydration: Forms a protective film that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improves hydration from the first use.
Processing Stability: Allows for repeated heating and cooling cycles without changing its structure, facilitating the production process.

Usage Recommendations

Cosmetic ingredient. General dosage: 2% - 20%.
Ideal for makeup and anhydrous facial care products, providing a fine structure and uniform application.
Due to its optimal melting point, it is excellent for body products that need to be solid in the packaging but melt upon contact with the skin.
Used in solid styling products and beard care, where consistency and the lack of visible residue are critical.

Applications

Concealer and Highlighter Sticks: Ensures a constant white base color, facilitating color matching and excellent pigment pay-off.
Lip Balms: Provides a creamy feel, reduces oiliness, and prevents unwanted crystallization of natural butters in the formula.
Sunscreen Sticks: Improves temperature stability and the distribution of filters on the skin.
Styling Waxes and Pomades: Offers structure without excessively weighing down the hair.
Beard Care: Solid beard balms that require easy melting on contact with skin and uniform distribution.
Solid Shampoos: Can be integrated to improve the bar's texture and for a light conditioning effect.
Hydrating and Massage Sticks: Ensures superior gliding and a softness proven by micropenetration tests.
Solid Deodorants: Stabilizes the structure of stick deodorants and helps prevent the formation of crystalline clumps.
Baby Products: Due to its natural and hypoallergenic profile, it is suitable for protective balms.

Formulation Guide

It is the first choice for formulations that tend to become grainy over time, such as sticks, bars, concealers, solid deodorants, lipsticks, lip balms, whipped butters, anhydrous creams, and conditioners. It integrates easily into the oil phase with predictable results.
Recommended Dosage: For sticks and solid cosmetics: 5-20%; for balms and unctuous emulsions: 2-10%.
Procedure: Add to the oil phase of the preparation.
Temperature: Add to the oil/wax phase and heat until melted. It is essential that the ingredient is completely melted in the lipid phase before pouring. Melting point between 58-64°C, but can be safely heated up to 85-90°C.
Cooling: For optimal results, controlled cooling is recommended; however, the ingredient is designed to stabilize the formula even with slow cooling at room temperature.
Compatibility: Works best in combination with natural waxes (beeswax, candelilla, carnauba) or vegetable butters, helping to create a stable 3D network that traps oil droplets.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is the "blooming" effect and how does this ingredient prevent it?
Blooming is the appearance of white spots on the surface of solid cosmetic products caused by changes in the crystallinity of fats (especially triglycerides). Evena Wax, being free of polymorphism, controls the recrystallization process, keeping the surface smooth and shiny.

Does this wax change the hardness of the stick?
Not directly, but it provides a much more stable and break-resistant structure by organizing the formula's components more efficiently. Although it is a solid lipid, associating it with other waxes (2-5% additional wax) is recommended for adequate stick hardness. Castor oil can also help increase hardness in combination with this ingredient.

Can I reheat the formula if I use this ingredient?
Yes, Evena Wax allows for repeated heating and cooling processes without changing its stable crystalline form and without affecting the final hardness of the product.

Safety in Use

Profile: Safe, bio-compatible ingredient derived from renewable sources. It is considered safe for use in cosmetic products, including leave-on products for lips, face, and body, as well as baby products.
Precautions: Do not ingest in its pure state. For cosmetic use only.
Storage: Store in the original packaging, away from excessive moisture and heat.

Bibliography and Sources

Technical documentation and information provided by the Manufacturer.
CosIng - European Commission Database for Cosmetic Substances and Ingredients.
Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 on cosmetic products.