Aftershave Olibanum & Sage
Formula: 33108 Difficulty level: medium Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 5.5-6.0

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr
A Rice bran oil 10 5 gr
B Emulsifier Liqua 3 1,5 gr
A Cetearyl alcohol 1,5 0,75 gr
B Hamamelis water 60,3 30,15 gr
B Aloe Vera gel 20 10 gr
B Glycerine 3 1,5 gr
C Xanthan gum 0,2 0,1 gr
D Bisabolol natural 1 0,5 gr
D Clary Sage essential oil 0,2 0,1 gr (3 drop)
D Frankincense essential oil 0,2 0,1 gr (3 drop)
D Cosgard 0,6 0,3 gr

1. Heat the ingredients of phases A and B separately up to 70°C in a heat-resistant beaker on a water bath. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from heat.

2. Add the contents of phase A to phase B with mixing, continue mixing until smooth. Add phase C and homogenize.

3. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water and blend until a smooth, glossy, homogeneous emulsion forms.

4. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, add the ingredients of phase D and mix thoroughly until smooth.

5. Transfer the mixture to the dedicated container. The consistency will be final the next day.

The result is a light, non-greasy emulsion with a pleasant fragrance. Can be used as an aftershave or day cream.

Reviews

E
Ellemental
27 Dec 2023
Hello! To replace the emulsifier the whole formula has to be rethought, so we cannot recommend. Have a nice day!
D
Demeter G.
26 Dec 2023
Hello! I would like to ask what I can replace the Liquia emulsifier with?
E
Ellemental
04 Dec 2018
We do not recommend such a modification, Fluida emulsifier is picky about the preservative used in the formula.
O
Olaru A.
03 Dec 2018
I would like to try this recipe again but I would like to replace the preservative with grapefruit seed preservative so xanthan gum with guar gum. Do you think that would be a good idea?
E
Ellemental
14 Feb 2018
Andreea, if you worked with the indicated dosages, followed the preparation instructions and only substituted the wit witch hazel water and removed one of the essential oils, then a stable emulsion should have resulted. When blending, more air can be incorporated and a foamy texture results, but this is only an aesthetic problem; in this case it is advisable to blend slowly and thoroughly at the end to release as much of the air as possible.
O
Olaru A.
13 Feb 2018
I have tried the recipe with rice oil, cetearyl, chamomile water, aloe gel, aloe, fluid, xanthan gum, bisabolol, cosgard and frankincense and it has a strange, aerated consistency, as if it was cut. Any idea why?
D
Daniela S.
27 Sep 2017
Thank you so much!
E
Ellemental
25 Sep 2017
Daniela, in principle you can add alaun powder about 0.5-0.7%, but you may need to increase the dosage for xanthan to 0.3%. To avoid a too acidic composition, you could replace the aloe vera gel with water and possibly an extra 5% nalba extract or 3% glycerine. The optimum pH value would be between 5.5-6.5. Have a nice day!
D
Daniela S.
25 Sep 2017
Raportat la reteta de roll-on fresh all day , banuiesc ca s-ar putea aggiungere powra de alaun in formula de mai - above. If so, please advise me what I should consider ( ph). Many thanks.
E
Ellemental
04 Sep 2016
Kat B, For the Glycem we cannot indicate a substitute in this recipe and to change both emulsifiers would require reformulation and testing.
K
Kat B.
03 Sep 2016
Just as I was preparing my ingredients, I realized I don't have the co-emulsifier. What can I replace it with? (Either it or both emulsifiers if necessary). Thanks!
a
alexandra
07 Jun 2016
Thank you from the bottom of my heart, you are superb!
E
Ellemental
07 Jun 2016
The formula is okay and well thought out; we have emollients (but not in too high a percentage, and one is drier), moisturizing, anti-aging, calming and skin regenerating actives - so pretty much everything a good cream should contain. It can also be used as aftershave. A few suggestions: - rose water, especially in combination with the fragrance of fragard will give a floral and rather feminine scent... you could use witch hazel or rosemary water for example, but that depends on personal preference - if you use ferulic acid, measure the pH at the end and adjust it so that it is no higher than 5.5
E
Ellemental
07 Jun 2016
Alexandra, please give us the percentages of the ingredients in your formula.
A
Ada
15 Apr 2014
Hello, I made in the past an after shave lotion for my husband, I remembered that this was it. But now I see that it is missing the magnesium stearate that I remember and instead I don't remember it containing the co-emulsifier Glycemul which I don't have and never had/ is it possible that I made a mistake looking for the recipe? I have looked through other lotion recipes but can't find the list of ingredients that I remember. Unfortunately, I notice that I didn't have them... Could you please send me the original ingredients I mentioned? Husband liked the lotion/cream and asked me to make it for him again. Time and possibilities to order new ingredients now I don't have .... Thank you very much, Ada
A
Ada
15 Apr 2014
Hello, I made in the past an after shave lotion for my husband, I remembered that this was it. But now I see that it is missing the magnesium stearate that I remember and instead I don't remember it containing the co-emulsifier Glycemul which I don't have and never had/ is it possible that I made a mistake looking for the recipe? I have looked through other lotion recipes but can't find the list of ingredients that I remember. Unfortunately, I notice that I didn't have them... Could you please send me the original ingredients I mentioned? Husband liked the lotion/cream and asked me to make it for him again. Time and possibilities to order new ingredients now I don't have .... Thank you very much