Glyceryl Stearate (Glycemul)
Description
Glyceryl Stearate – Co-emulsifier, Consistency Agent, Structural Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate also known as Glycemul, is a high-performance co-emulsifier of 100% plant origin that functions as a non-ionic lipophilic co-emulsifier, texturizing agent, and consistency factor for Oil-in-Water (O/W) and Water-in-Oil (W/O) emulsions. Since it is not a standalone emulsifier, it is used only in combination with other emulsifiers, providing emulsions with a rich structure, a glossy white appearance, and high stability.
When combined with a high-HLB emulsifier, it participates in the formation of a lamellar liquid crystal gel network in the external water phase. This three-dimensional network mechanically traps oil droplets and immobilizes free water, significantly increasing the dynamic viscosity of the emulsion and preventing phase separation caused by creaming or coalescence. By reducing lipid crystal size, glyceryl stearate prevents the glassy or grainy texture typical of dense creams, ensuring a smooth, homogeneous, and creamy texture over time.
From a dermatological perspective, as a biomimetic substance, glyceryl stearate transiently integrates into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum. Its application helps restore the integrity of the hydrolipidic barrier, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) without exerting an occlusive effect.
Ingredients (INCI): Glyceryl Stearate.
Technical Characteristics
- Ingredient Type: Non-ionic lipophilic monoester, non-self-emulsifying type (non-SE).
- Appearance: Granulated powder, cream-white color, neutral odor.
- HLB Value: ~3.8 (strongly lipophilic character).
- Solubility: Soluble in oils and esters upon heating.
- Indicative Dosage: 1% - 10%
Main Properties
- Stabilizer and Co-emulsifier: Strengthens the bond between phases in O/W emulsions and optimizes the performance of the primary emulsifier.
- Consistency Factor: Increases cream density and body, allowing viscosity adjustment of the oil phase.
- Appearance Enhancer: Imparts a clean, optically pleasing opacity with a glossy finish to emulsions.
- Sensory Modifier: Alleviates the overly watery or excessively greasy feel of certain formulas, leaving a velvety, non-greasy film. Ensures smooth, soft-touch creams with a superior sensory profile.
Applications
- Moisturizing, nourishing, and anti-aging facial day and night creams for all skin types.
- Body lotions, body butters, fluid emulsions, and body milks.
- Hair conditioners, hair masks, and conditioning treatments.
- Creamy makeup products, deodorants, self-tanners.
- Baby skin care products, hygiene products.
- Sun care products and after-sun emulsions.
Formulation Guide
- Procedure: Glyceryl Stearate is added to the oil phase of emulsions and requires heating to 65°C - 70°C.
- Need for an Emulsifier: Because its HLB value is low, it cannot form a stable O/W emulsion on its own. It must always be combined with a strong hydrophilic emulsifier (high HLB).
- Formulations: Can be used in non-ionic, anionic, or cationic O/W emulsions, as well as in W/O emulsions; can be used as a binder in anhydrous applications such as lipsticks and balms.
- Recommended Usage Dosage: 1% - 10%. Used at 1% - 5% as a secondary agent in fluid creams and lotions, and up to 5% - 10% in dense creams or balms.
- pH Stability: Optimal within the pH range of 4.5 – 9.0.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the difference between Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE?
The difference lies in self-emulsifying capacity. The plain version consists exclusively of a lipophilic monoester and contains no active hydrophilic components. The "SE" (Self-Emulsifying) version - available in our range under the name Bella Emulsifier - contains a small percentage of integrated surfactant, allowing it to emulsify water and oil mixtures on its own without additional emulsifiers.
Why did my cream separate a few hours after cooling, even though I used glyceryl stearate?
This happens if Glyceryl Stearate was used as the sole emulsifying agent. Due to its low HLB, it lacks the force needed to keep oil droplets dispersed within a large water phase. Without being paired with a high-HLB emulsifier, the phases will separate rapidly. Ensure you use a correctly paired, stable emulsification system.
Safety in Use and Storage
Safety Profile: Safe, non-irritating, biodegradable raw material. Exhibits high dermatological compatibility and is tolerated even by sensitive skin at recommended dosages.
Precautions: For external cosmetic use only.
Storage: Keep in a tightly closed container, in a dry, cool place (below 25°C).
Details
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