15 Jan 2025
Men's grooming recipes
Author: Ellemental
30
Myrrh & Cucumber Moisturising Cream
Formula: 10239 Difficulty level: medium Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 5.5-6.0

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 30 gr
A Grapeseed oil 15 4,5 gr
A Emulsifier Liqua 3 0,9 gr
A Co-emulsifier Glycemul 3 0,9 gr
B Hamamelis water 71,7 21,5 gr
B Cucumber extract 5 1,5 gr
C Xanthan gum 0,2 0,06 gr
D Myrrh essential oil 0,3 0,1 gr (3 drop)
D Bisabolol 0,2 0,06 gr (2 drop)
D Bamboo powder 0,5 0,15 gr
D Vitamin E 0,5 0,15 gr (4 drop)
D Cosgard 0,6 0,18 gr

1. Heat the ingredients of phases A and B separately up to 70°C in a heat-resistant beaker on a water bath. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from heat.

2. Add the contents of phase A to phase B with mixing, continue mixing until smooth. Add phase C and homogenize.

3. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water and blend until a smooth, glossy, homogeneous emulsion forms.

4. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, add the ingredients of phase D and mix thoroughly until smooth.

5. Measure the pH value and adjust if necessary.

6. Transfer the mixture to the dedicated container. Consistency will be final the next day.

A smooth and light cream with a sophisticated masculine scent. Absorbs quickly and leaves the skin moisturised, cared for. Can be used as a day cream or aftershave.

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Reviews

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E
Ellemental N.
02 Mar 2023
Love Cornelia! Yes, for small quantities of 30-100 g, try adding, the watery phase over the oily phase. The watery phase is added in one stroke over phase B, while the mixer is already mixing the oily phase. Good luck!
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Cornelia P.
01 Mar 2023
Thank you very much for your answer! Am I to understand that in all recipes where it is recommended to add the oily phase to the water phase, I could do the inversion if I work with small amounts? 50-100 g maximum is considered small amount? :)
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Ellemental N.
01 Mar 2023
Hello Cornelia, Yes, you can replace Cosgard with Fragard or cucumber oil with other oils with similar characteristics. Regarding your question about the loss caused by immediate cooling of phase A, we recommend adding phase B to phase A, especially when preparing small quantities of products, where losses can be significant. Good luck!
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Cornelia P.
28 Feb 2023
Hello! Can Cosgard be replaced by Fragard and cucumber oil be replaced by aloe vera oil or another regenerating oil? I would also like you to clarify the following problem: in all situations where the oil phase is added on top of the water phase, a significant amount of the oil phase is lost (because the cooling occurs immediately and some of the oil phase remains on the walls of the vessel during the pouring in the water phase) . How can we avoid this? :) Thanks in advance for your answer! Have a nice day!
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Ellemental
20 May 2019
Dear Marishell, the Fluida emulsifier is one more particular, we cannot recommend a suitable replacement. However, you can rethink the formula with Emulsan, so you can refer to the recipes based on this emulsifier.
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M
Marishell O.
18 May 2019
What I could replace fluid emulsifier? That s the only thing I don t have & I want to make it for my husband.
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Ellemental
06 Apr 2018
Hello, Lidia. In principle you can replace Glycem in this formula with cetearyl alcohol, possibly increase the dosage of xanthan gum a little. Good luck!
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L
Lidia
05 Apr 2018
Hello. I have all the ingredients for this cream except the Co-emulsifier Glycemul. Could you please tell me what I could replace it with? Emulsan? Or can I permanently remove it from the recipe? I have made an aftershave before (Olibanum & Sage) and only used xanthan gum, cetearyl alcohol and Fluida emulsifier, could I do the same here? Thank you!
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Ellemental
11 Dec 2015
Hello, You can use aloe vera oil, it stimulates cell regeneration, collagen and elastin synthesis. For extra moisturizing, instead of a part of witch hazel water you can include in the formula 3% cosmetic urea
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Sorina
08 Dec 2015
Good Evening! Could I replace fig oil with aloe vera oil? I would need a men's face cream for exfoliated skin. What recipe do you recommend, or if I can replace some ingredients in this recipe. Thank you! Sorina
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Ellemental
15 Sep 2015
If the final phase of an emulsion, C-phase in this case, is too highly charged, this causes the hot emulsion to fail.
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amalia
14 Sep 2015
I prepared this cream 2 times, the first time 50 ml and the second time 90 ml, the second time the cream came out very fluid, I added rice powder 3% in the hope that it will thicken but after a few days it became very thin and on the jar lid remained a thicker part,the cream doesn't seem cut but it doesn't seem very bound to me either, do you have any idea what happened, where I could have gone wrong, I mention that the second time I replaced the cucumber extract with urea and sodium pca and in phase c I added collagen 2, hyaluronic acid 0.5 and q10 1 by decreasing the water
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Ellemental
08 May 2015
Hello, Theoretically you can introduce sunscreen in this formula, but without tests done in practice, we cannot advise you. Thank you for your understanding.
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Dalia
08 May 2015
Hello, Can this cream also be prepared for sun protection? Can you tell me how the recipe should be modified? Thank you for the recipes and answers you post, they are very helpful.
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Ellemental
31 Mar 2015
Hello, We do not recommend replacing the emulsifier. Usually this replacement involves reformulating the recipe and without testing beforehand, we cannot advise you. Thank you for your understanding.
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LARISA V.
30 Mar 2015
Hello, Can I replace the emulsifier with Olliva emulsifier? Thank you.
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Ellemental
11 Apr 2014
raluca, Hello, We suggest an addition of 2-3% zinc oxide in phase C, adjusting the percentage of floral water accordingly.
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r
raluca
10 Apr 2014
Hello, Starting from the recipe FM10239, I would like to formulate a lotion for combination and sensitive skin with imperfections, using the following ingredients: -Fase A: jojoba oil (20%), co-emulsifier Glycemul (3%); -Fase B: lavender water (74%), emulsifier Fluida (1%); -Fase C: EU bay (0.7 %), EU Tea Tree (0.7 %), preservative Cosgard (0.6 %); I would like to add zinc oxide, because of the benefits it brings to acne-prone skin. Please let me know if this is possible (considering the emulsifiers used), at what stage and how much can be added. Thank you.
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E
Ellemental
11 Mar 2014
cornelia, Hello, Lotion can also be applied to the T-zone, which also needs moisturizing. Possibly, instead of some of the cucumber extract, use Marine-Z with seboregulating action. Have a nice day!
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cornelia
11 Mar 2014
Hello, I'm going to try to prepare this recipe for a combination skin type - with oily T-zone and the rest of the skin tending to dryness. Can you advise me what to use for the T-zone? I am thinking that this lotion will be used on areas with a tendency to dryness. Thanks in advance and congratulations for all you do, Cornelia
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