15 Jan
Skin Care recipes
Author: Ellemental
41
Lift & fill cream
Formula: 68435 Difficulty level: medium Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 5.5-6.0

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr
A Centella Asiatica oil 8 4 gr
A Coco-silicone 5 2,5 gr
A Acmella In-Tense extract 2 1 gr
A Emulsifier Olliva 5 2,5 gr
B Rose water 37 18,5 gr
B Linden water 36,7 18,35 gr
B Sodium PCA 2 1 gr
B Xanthan gum 0,2 0,1 gr
C Dermo-filler 2 1 gr
C City-guard 1 0,5 gr
C Dragon's blood extract 0,5 0,25 gr
C Cosgard 0,6 0,3 g

1. Mix the liquid ingredients of phase B and sprinkle xanthan gum with vigorous stirring. Heat the ingredients of phase A and B separately up to 70°C in a heat-resistant beaker on a water bath. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from heat.

2. Add the contents of phase A to phase B with mixing, continue mixing until smooth.

3. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water and blend until a smooth, glossy, homogeneous emulsion is formed.

4. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, or hand temperature, add the phase C ingredients and mix thoroughly until smooth.

5. Measure pH value and adjust if necessary.

6. Transfer the composition to the dedicated container. Consistency will be final the next day.

The result is a light-textured day cream suitable for slightly dry, normal or combination skin. Contains ingredients that protect against the damaging effects of urban environmental factors, balance the skin's natural barrier, help accelerate cell renewal for a denser, firmer-looking complexion.

Recipe products and accessories

Reviews

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M
Marie Goulene
19 Jul
Hello, can I use only rose water and no Linden water, and replace Sodium PCA with glycerin? Thank you! Best wishes!
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E
Ellemental.com
20 Jul
Hi, Marie! Yes, sure, you can do these ingredient substitutions.
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A
Andreea V.
14 Jul 2023
Hello! This formula is amazing! It moisturizes the complexion and gives it radiance! I use it before applying the CC cream. Thank you for all you do!
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E
Ellemental N.
03 Mar 2023
Hello Dana, You can realize the proposed modification, include hyaluronic acid in phase C and recommend a slightly higher dosage of about 0.5% to have a similar gelling effect. Coenzyme Q10 can be substituted for acmella extract in the same percentage. Without tests, and without knowing the characteristics of the extract of coleflower, we cannot recommend adding this ingredient. Have a sunny day!
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D
Dana s.
03 Mar 2023
Hello, I would like to replace: xanthan gum with hyaluronic acid hmw acmella hmw acmella in tense with coenzyme Q10, same percentages. And to add extract of cabbage flower. Please help me with what percentage is ok and what to decrease. Thank you. Have a wonderful day!
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E
Ellemental N.
11 Jan 2023
Hello! We suggest to supplement the formula with 2-3% co-emulsifier Stabila or Cetearyl Alcohol.
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C
Croitoru E.
09 Jan 2023
Hello, I like this cream very much, but the consistency is too fluid, also in my daily routine there is too much xanthan gum. I replaced it with HMW acid 0,5% and a little bit I increased (by 0,5gr) the emulsifier Olliva but it is still more fluid than I like. What modifications do you suggest to change the texture of the cream. Thanks !!!
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E
Ellemental
28 Jan 2022
Hello! Yes, you can use it. Good luck!
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a
ana v.
24 Jan 2022
Hello can I use urea instead of sodium PCA? Thanks!!!!
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E
Ellemental
03 Nov 2021
Hello! The problem was not with placing in cold water but with the way you blended; if the propeller of the blender slams hard against the wall of the glass, it inevitably breaks. Immerse the mixer in the composition, without contact with the glass, especially if you are working with the more powerful mixer (the corded one).
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L
Loredana B.
31 Oct 2021
Hello, the moment I placed the berzelius glass in a bowl of cold water and started mixing, it broke... Why did this happen? Thank you
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E
Ellemental
25 Oct 2021
Hello! Practically yes, the proposed replacement can be made. All the best!
Reply
L
Loredana
23 Oct 2021
Hello Can you replace dragon's blood with beef extract? Thank you
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C
Claudia C.
28 Sep 2021
They received BTMS.
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E
Ellemental
19 May 2021
Hello! You can make the suggested substitutions, same quantity. For vari BTMS, unfortunately we do not have a deadline yet, sorry for the inconvenience. Have an easy day!
Reply
E
Elena
18 May 2021
Can you please tell me if I can replace sodium PCA with glycerin and dragon's blood with schisandra extract?If yes, same quantity? When do you get Vari Btms Emulsifier? Thank you!
Reply
E
Ellemental
21 Apr 2021
Hello! The proposed modification can be realized, include hyaluronic acid in the C phase and we recommend a slightly higher dosage of about 0.5% to have a similar gelling effect. Good luck!
Reply
A
Alexandra R.
20 Apr 2021
Hello! Can you please tell me if it is possible to replace xanthan gum with HMW hyaluronic acid?
Reply
E
Elena
31 Aug 2020
Yes, it's your xanthan gum.
Reply
E
Ellemental
31 Aug 2020
Hello! As an alternative you can use guar gum (about 0,5%) or corn starch - for which we can't give you an optimal percentage, about 2%, added in phase C. What kind of xanthan gum do you use, the one you buy from us?
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E
Elena
29 Aug 2020
Hello, if I would like to add corn starch as emulsion stabilizer, at what stage should I add it ? Xanthan gum gives me the feeling that it tightens the skin (Even in very small amounts ) and then I was thinking to remove the Xanthan gum and replace it with corn starch. Thanks! You are very cool!
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