Acmella In-Tense extract
Description
Acmella In-Tense Extract
Acmella In-Tense – natural ingredient for skin firmness, density, and a smooth appearance
Acmella In-Tense extract is a concentrated active ingredient of 100% natural origin that contributes to the appearance of skin firmness and density, helping to visibly diminish wrinkles and smooth areas prone to skin sagging, such as the neck and decolleté.
It is obtained from the flowers of the Acmella Oleracea plant, rich in lipophilic alkylamides, particularly spilanthol, compounds recognized in specialized literature as markers of the plant's biological activity. Harvesting is carried out selectively, solely from the upper flower buds of the plant, a practice that allows local communities to continue using the rest of the plant for traditional culinary purposes, a detail that speaks volumes about the sustainability philosophy behind this ingredient.
Ingredients (INCI): Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Acmella Oleracea Extract.
Technical Characteristics
- Appearance: Slightly yellowish oily liquid, characteristic faint odor.
- Origin, Sustainability: 100% natural origin, obtained through selective harvesting of upper Acmella flower buds to allow natural reproduction of the plant and utilization of the remainder by local communities. RSPO Mass Balance certified ingredient.
- Solubility: Lipophilic / Oil-soluble.
- Recommended Dosage: 1% - 2%.
Efficacy Tests
The data below originates from studies conducted by the supplier of this cosmetic ingredient on the purified active ingredient at the indicated concentrations. Results obtained in a finished cosmetic product will depend on the concentration used and the overall formula into which it is incorporated.
- Stimulation of Fibroblast Contractile Force (In Vitro): Using the GlasBoxPlus® device, which quantifies the forces developed by fibroblasts and determines their cellular "lifting" effect, tests demonstrated an increase in fibroblast contractile force of +18% at a dosage of just 0.075% active ingredient—an effect comparable to that of growth factor TGF-β (+20%), used as a positive reference in this test type.
- Immediate Efficacy on "Crow's Feet" Wrinkles (In Vivo): A clinical study conducted on 28 volunteers with mature skin (application twice daily of a cream with 2% active ingredient) showed results starting from the very first day (D1) of use:
- Wrinkle surface area decreases by -12%.
- Wrinkle depth decreases by -8%.
- Wrinkle volume decreases by -6%.
- After 28 days, wrinkle count, depth, and length are significantly reduced.
- Neck Area Firmness (In Vivo): Test on 30 women (1% active ingredient applied for 28/56 days):
- At 28 days: creased/crepey appearance decreases by -12%, and overall skin quality increases by +30%.
- At 56 days: clinical scoring (dermatological evaluation) confirms a reduction in fine lines and creased appearance of up to -22%.
- Decolleté Smoothness (In Vivo): 3D analysis of wrinkles in the decolleté area after 56 days of use (1% active ingredient):
- Wrinkle surface area decreases by -14.3%.
- Wrinkle length decreases by -14.1%.
- Wrinkle volume decreases by -20.4%.
- Body Firmness Evaluated by Cutometry (In Vivo): Measurements on the forearm after 56 days indicated a reduction in skin extensibility of -12.5% (firmer skin) and an increase in skin tonicity of +16.3%. In self-assessment questionnaires, over 80% of participants confirmed firmer, smoother, and younger-looking skin.
Properties and Benefits
- Rapidly Visible Firm and Smooth Appearance: According to supplier studies, it contributes to a visibly smoother skin appearance from the first day of use, a rare advantage among natural actives, where results typically emerge after several weeks.
- Support for a Dense Skin Appearance: Supplier studies indicate an effect on fibroblast activity, playing a role in skin density appearance, particularly useful in formulations designed for mature skin.
- Neck and Decolleté Area: Helps smooth the look of "crepey" or tone-deficient skin in these sensitive areas, often neglected in standard care routines.
- Body Firmness: Contributes to the appearance of skin elasticity and tonicity on the body, suitable for formulations dedicated to arms, thighs, or abdomen.
- Formulation Versatility: Oil-soluble, thermally stable, free of standalone preservatives, and cruelty-free, lends itself to a wide range of textures, from facial oil serums to color cosmetics with firming benefits.
Applications
- Anti-Aging Facial Care: Day/night creams and serums, intensive treatments for expression lines and "crow's feet," nourishing facial oil blends.
- Eye Contour: Creams and gels for the delicate area around the eyes, where fast visible results are particularly appreciated.
- Neck, Decolleté, and Facial Contour: Dedicated formulas specially developed for these areas prone to a creased/crepey look.
- Body Care: Firming and toning body creams, butters, and oils (arms, thighs, abdomen), daily maintenance body lotions.
- Men's Care: Aftershave formulas or firming day creams adapted to the simplified routines preferred by men.
- Color Cosmetics: Firming foundations, lipsticks, and lip balms with a visible plumping effect.
Formulation Guide
- Working Procedure: Generally added to the oil phase alongside other oils and emollients. In emulsions (creams, lotions), it can also be added during the final phase of preparation at lower temperatures, though it withstands brief heating well if the formulation process requires it.
- Compatibility, Stability: Compatible with most ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, including other anti-aging actives such as peptides, hyaluronic acid, or vitamin C. Stable across a broad pH range of 4.0 - 8.0, making it flexible for most formula types.
- Combination Recommendation: As an active ingredient targeted toward structural skin support, it works well in formulations alongside hydrating and antioxidant actives that complement a fresh, radiant look.
Usage Safety and Storage
Profile: Safe ingredient with good skin tolerance, documented through supplier acceptability testing. Not tested on animals.
Precautions: External cosmetic use only. As with any concentrated active, a patch test on a small area is recommended prior to use in the final formulation, especially for sensitive skin.
Storage: In a closed container, in a dry and cool place, protected from direct light and heat sources.
Details
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