Anti-wrinkle, correcting cream
Formula: KA5837 Difficulty level: medium Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 5.0-5.5

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 30 gr
A White Lily oil 10 3 gr
A Coco-Silicone 5 1,5 gr
A Vitamin C Palmitate 1 0,3 gr
A Olliva Emulsifier 4 1,2 gr
A Stearic acid 1,5 0,45 gr
B Pure / distilled water 72,7 21,8 gr
B Sodium PCA 3 0,9 gr
B Xanthan gum 0,2 0,06 gr
C Kojic Acid 1 0,3 gr
C Vitamin E 0,5 0,15 gr
C Carrot seeds essential oil 0,3 0,09 gr (3 drop)
C Chelator natural 0,2 0,06 gr (2 drop)
C Fragard 0,6 0,18 gr

1. Mix the liquid ingredients of phase B and sprinkle xanthan gum with vigorous stirring. Heat the ingredients of phase A and B separately up to 80°C in a heat-resistant glass on a water bath. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from heat.

2. Add the contents of phase A to phase B with mixing, continue mixing until smooth.

3. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water and blend until a smooth, glossy, homogeneous emulsion forms.

4. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, add the Phase C ingredients and mix thoroughly until smooth.

5. Measure the pH value and adjust if necessary.

6. Transfer the mixture to the dedicated container. Consistency will be final the next day.

A fine cream with a light texture, suitable for normal, combination or oily skin, useful for reducing sun spots, age spots or post-inflammatory spots (scars, acne). Formula aims to even out skin colour and brighten the complexion, has a moisturising and anti-ageing effect.

It can be applied to the face once a day, morning or evening, after cleansing the skin. If your skincare routine also includes chemical exfoliation (with AHA/BHA), then apply 10-15 minutes after exfoliation. The cream is indicated as a treatment for 1-2 months, after which a break is taken for 1-2 months. During the treatment, photoprotection of the skin during the day is necessary.

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Reviews

E
Ellemental
17 Apr 2024
Hello, A suitable substitute in place of xanthan gum we cannot recommend. If removed from the recipe, the consistency will be more fluid and the emulsion may become unstable. Have a sunny day!
P
Podoleanu S.
10 Apr 2024
Hello if I don't have xanthan gum with what can I replace it in this recipe? Thank you
E
Ellemental N.
16 Feb 2023
Hi Linda, Kojic acid is an essential ingredient in this formula. If you don't have it, you can replace it with niacinamide, arbutin or AHA fruit acids.We wish you!
L
Linda B.
15 Feb 2023
Hi, I would like to know if I can replace kojic acid with something else? I don't have it instead I have feluric acid or azelaic acid. Is there any substitution? Thank you very much in advance.
R
Rodica T.
05 Jan 2023
Hello, could I use Cosgard instead of Fragard in this recipe?
T
Turcu C.
23 Nov 2022
Hello! Would azelaic acid be useful in this formula? And can I dissolve it in glycerin instead of propanediol? Thank you.
E
Ellemental
31 Oct 2022
Hello! You can use Stabila co-emulsifier or Cetearyl alcohol, about 2%.
E
Estera E.
30 Oct 2022
Hi! I don't have stearic acid, and I understand that in this recipe it works as a co-emulsifier, what could I replace it with? Thanks
E
Ellemental
06 May 2022
Hello! With this recipe, where the emulsifier is fussy at the pH of the aqueous phase, we recommend no more than 10-15% floral water instead of some of the plain water.
M
Mondiia E.
02 May 2022
Hello ! Can a percentage of plain water, a floral water (for normal skin) be added to this recipe?
E
Ellemental
15 Apr 2022
Hello! In your message is the answer, it is the ascorbic acid that is to blame, it affects the pH of the composition and the emulsion cannot be realized; Bella emulsifier is anyway picky at the pH of the aqueous phase. You must work with vitamin C in the form suggested by the recipe. In the future, before making changes to any recipe, ask us, we are happy to advise you, to avoid such losses.
A
Andra B.
13 Apr 2022
Hello. I have tried this recipe twice and it cuts the moment I put the container in the bowl of cold water. Where am I going wrong? In the end it is not thick enough and the next day the liquid part separates from the solid part. I mention that I used vitamin C (absorbic) and the sobra cutiuta. Thanks
E
Ellemental
09 Apr 2022
Hello! The new blender should be used according to the blender's instructions, so for emulsion recipes in general, blend 1 + 1 minute, especially if making small amounts up to 100g.
O
Oana M.
06 Apr 2022
Hello. I also have a technical question. Both in this recipe, but also in others on the website, if we have the new type of mixer, the mixing time decreases from 3 minutes to 1 minute?
E
Ellemental
15 Dec 2021
Hello! Yes, instead of carrot seed essential oil you can use helichrysum essential oil, a good choice in case of cuproosis; it is compatible with the ingredients of this recipe. Good luck!
A
Ana
15 Dec 2021
Please advise me with the following problem:- unfortunately I have run out of carrot essential oil could I replace it with Helicrisyum? ??? I know that it is also good for couperose and I have a little on my nose and cheeks.....so is it compatible with the other ingredients in the recipe.???? Thank you
E
Ellemental
28 Oct 2021
Hello! Yes, this falcon is more suitable compared to a jar container.
R
Raluca O.
27 Oct 2021
Hello, would the Soft Tube Bottle be suitable to store the cream in optimal conditions? Thanks, Raluca
E
Ellemental
17 Aug 2021
Hello! You can also make that recipe without the chelator, but I have found that it turns yellow faster that way and probably slightly decreases the effectiveness, so it is a useful ingredient. Instead of hyaluronic acid HMW you can use LMW and about 0.2 xanthan gum.
M
Maria D.
16 Aug 2021
Hello, I have a question about Formula: KA5518 ,I don't have natural chelator, could I prepare it without? What would be the necessary modifications? And instead of hyaluronic acid hmw can I put lmw if I add xanthan? Please if you can guide me. Thanks a lot !