Vitamin C THDA
Description
Vitamin C THDA – Oil-soluble and stable form of Vitamin C
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA) is an oil-soluble ascorbic acid derivative developed to overcome the limitations of the traditional form of Vitamin C, particularly its sensitivity to oxidation and instability in formulations. Being soluble in oils, it penetrates the skin's lipid barrier more easily and maintains its efficacy for a longer period than pure ascorbic acid.
It is a potent antioxidant active widely used in formulations for mature skin or skin exposed to oxidative stress factors, where it contributes to a more even and luminous complexion. Unlike traditional ascorbic acid, it does not impart a yellowish tint to the formula and remains stable for a longer time in the finished product.
Ingredients (INCI): Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Technical Characteristics
- Appearance: Clear, colorless to pale yellow oil, faint characteristic odor
- Solubility: Soluble in oils and fats; insoluble in water
- Quality: Cosmetic-grade Vitamin C THDA, intended for use as an active ingredient in formulation
- Recommended Dosage: 1 - 10%
Scientific Studies and Documentation
According to the manufacturer, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate exhibits good skin penetration capability due to its lipophilic nature and acts as an active free radical scavenger, helping to limit lipid peroxidation induced by oxidative stress. The same source indicates an inhibitory action on tyrosinase activity, an enzyme involved in the melanin synthesis process, a mechanism relevant to promoting evenness in hyperpigmentation-prone areas.
Combining Vitamin C with Vitamin E is documented in specialized literature as having a synergistic antioxidant effect superior to using either ingredient alone, which is why these two actives frequently appear together in skin care formulations.
Properties and Benefits
- Potent antioxidant with a free radical neutralizing effect
- Contributes to a more even and luminous complexion
- Useful for addressing the appearance of dark spots or uneven skin tone
- Significantly better formulation stability than traditional ascorbic acid
- Does not impart a yellowish tint to the formula, unlike pure ascorbic acid
- Good skin penetration capability due to its lipophilic nature
Applications
- Facial serums and creams with antioxidant and brightening benefits
- Body lotions and creams
- Pre- and post-sun care products
- Makeup products with skin-care benefits
- Lip care products
Formulation Guide
- Add to the oil phase of the formula under stirring until fully homogenized
- Compatible with and highly recommended in combination with Vitamin E for a stronger synergistic antioxidant effect
- Do not apply directly or undiluted to the skin, use exclusively incorporated into a cosmetic formulation
- Low concentrations (1 - 3%): suitable for a moderate antioxidant effect in daily care formulations
- Medium-high concentrations (5 - 10%): used in concentrated serums with a visible effect on the complexion's appearance
- Optimal pH range for the finished product: 3.5 - 6.0
Usage Safety and Storage
- Profile: Safe ingredient with good skin tolerance
- Precautions: External cosmetic use; do not ingest; do not apply directly, undiluted, onto the skin
- Storage: Store in a closed container in a cool, dry place, protected from light
Details
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