Vitamin C AG
Description
Ascorbyl Glucoside – Stabilized form of Vitamin C, better skin tolerance
Ascorbyl Glucoside (also known as AA2G) is an antioxidant ingredient used in skincare formulations for its contribution to a brighter, more even-toned complexion as active Vitamin C is gradually released within the superficial layer of the skin.
It is Vitamin C stabilized through a bond with a glucose molecule. This structure ensures that ascorbic acid is not released immediately, but rather progressively as natural skin enzymes (alpha-glucosidase) break down the bond between the two molecules. The result is a sustained-release profile with significantly better formulation stability and a lower risk of discomfort compared to pure ascorbic acid.
Ingredients (INCI): Ascorbyl Glucoside
Technical Characteristics
- Appearance: Off-white to cream powder, neutral odor
- Solubility: Soluble in water
- Quality: Cosmetic grade, obtained by enzymatic stabilization of ascorbic acid with glucose
- Indicative Dosage: 1 - 5%
Scientific Studies and Documentation
Mechanistically, Ascorbyl Glucoside is broken down at the skin level by the enzyme alpha-glucosidase, which is naturally present in cutaneous cell membranes, a process that gradually releases active ascorbic acid. Specialized literature confirms that this controlled release maintains constant antioxidant activity over an extended period of time, unlike pure ascorbic acid, which rapidly loses its activity in formulations due to oxidation.
Ascorbyl Glucoside as a raw material remains stable until the moment of application to the skin, where it is activated by natural enzymes, significantly reducing the risk of degradation during storage of the finished product compared to formulations based on free ascorbic acid.
Properties and Benefits
- Antioxidant with sustained release and prolonged action profile
- Contributes to a brighter and more even-toned complexion
- Superior formulation stability compared to pure ascorbic acid
- Good skin tolerance with a reduced risk of discomfort compared to traditional Vitamin C
- Soluble in water, easy to incorporate into aqueous formulations
Applications
- Facial serums and creams with antioxidant and brightening effects
- Toners and essences, due to its good water solubility
- Products targeted for uneven skin tone or hyperpigmentation
- Makeup products with incorporated skin care benefits
Formulation Guide
- Ascorbyl Glucoside powder is strongly acidic when added to water
- Avoid prolonged exposure of the ingredient to highly acidic or alkaline solutions
- Before incorporation into the formula, especially at higher percentages, preparing a solution by diluting the powder in a small amount of water is recommended
- The aqueous Ascorbyl Glucoside solution must be quickly neutralized using a sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH) solution
- The optimal pH range for the final formulation is between 6.5 and 6.8
- Add to the formulation at a maximum temperature of 40°C
- Incorporating a chelating agent and an antioxidant is recommended to enhance finished product stability
- Low concentrations (1 - 2%): moderate antioxidant effect, suitable for daily care
- Medium to high concentrations (3 - 5%): more visible effect on complexion brightness
Usage Safety and Storage
- Profile: Safe ingredient with good skin tolerance
- Precautions: External cosmetic use; do not ingest
- Storage: Store in a closed container in a cool, dry place, protected from light
Details
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