Vitamin C MAP
Description
Vitamin C MAP – Stable and gentle form of Vitamin C
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is an ascorbic acid derivative developed to overcome the main limitation of traditional Vitamin C: instability in aqueous environments and the necessity of a highly acidic pH to remain active. Unlike pure ascorbic acid, MAP remains stable even in neutral or slightly alkaline formulations, making it much easier to work with and far better tolerated by sensitive skin.
Once applied to the skin, MAP is gradually converted by natural skin enzymes into active Vitamin C, allowing it to act as an antioxidant and contribute to a brighter, more even complexion. It is a prized ingredient in formulations designed for aging, uneven skin, or skin prone to hyperpigmentation.
Ingredients (INCI): Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Technical Characteristics
- Appearance: Off-white to yellowish powder
- Solubility: Soluble in water
- Quality: Cosmetic-grade Vitamin C MAP, low free ascorbic acid content
- Indicative Dosage: 0.5 - 3%, depending on the desired effect
Scientific Studies and Documentation
According to the manufacturer, MAP retains its stability remarkably well under high-temperature conditions without significant degradation compared to classic ascorbic acid, a notable advantage for thermally processed formulations. It is, however, unstable under prolonged exposure to UV light.
Mechanistically, MAP is converted at the skin level into active ascorbic acid by the action of natural phosphatases. It acts as an inhibitor of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in the process of melanin synthesis, a mechanism documented in specialized literature as relevant for promoting brightness and evenness in areas prone to hyperpigmentation.
Properties and Benefits
- Antioxidant, offering a protective effect against oxidative stress
- Contributes to a brighter and more even skin tone
- Useful for addressing the appearance of dark spots or uneven skin areas
- Moisturizing effect through its ability to attract and retain water in the skin
- Stable across a neutral to slightly alkaline pH range, unlike traditional ascorbic acid
- Good skin tolerance, suitable even for sensitive skin
Applications
- Facial serums and creams with antioxidant and brightening benefits
- Products targeted for uneven skin tone or hyperpigmentation
- General care products for mature skin
Formulation Guide
- Dissolves in the aqueous phase of the formula at room temperature or slightly warmed
- General dosage 0.5 - 3.0%, and higher in intensive treatments
- Recommended pH range for the final formulation: 6.0 - 7.5
- Incompatible with metal ions (may degrade in their presence); avoid direct pairing with metal-based ingredients without appropriate chelating agents
- Protecting the formula from prolonged light exposure is recommended, as MAP is sensitive to UV radiation
- Can be combined with Vitamin E for a synergistic antioxidant effect
- To achieve a visible effect on skin brightness, concentrations of at least 3% are typically required
Usage Safety and Storage
- Profile: Safe ingredient with good skin tolerance
- Precautions: External cosmetic use; do not ingest
- Storage: Store in a closed container, protected from light, in a cool, dry place
Details
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