Foundation for normal/combination skin
Formula: 52822 Difficulty level: medium Shelf life: min 3 months pH optimal: 7.0

Phase Ingredients Dosage % Total 50 gr
A Marula oil 10 5 gr
A Emulsifier Liqua 3 1,5 gr
A Cetearyl alcohol 2 1 gr
B Distilled water 68,1 34,05 gr
B Zinc oxide 15 7,5 gr
B Cosmetic pigment red hydrophilic 0,18 0,09 gr
B Cosmetic pigment black hydrophilic 0,16 0,08 gr
B Cosmetic pigment yellow hydrophilic 0,46 0,23 gr
C Xanthan gum 0,2 0,1 gr
D Natural fragrance oil Lilac 0,3 0,15 gr
D Cosgard 0,6 0,3 gr

1. Heat the ingredients of phases A and B separately up to 75°C in a heat-resistant beaker on a water bath. When both phases have reached the right temperature, remove from heat.

2. Add the contents of phase A to phase B with mixing, continue mixing until smooth. Add phase C and homogenize.

3. Place the beaker in a bowl of cold water and blend until a smooth, glossy, homogeneous emulsion forms.

4. When the mixture has cooled to below 40°C, or hand temperature, add the Phase D ingredients and mix thoroughly until smooth.

5. There is no need to adjust the pH. Transfer the composition to the dedicated container. Consistency will be final the next day.

The result is a cream foundation, ideal for normal to combination skin. It has a pleasant texture, medium coverage, light neutral shade, does not weigh down the complexion.
To obtain a darker shade, a little of each hydrophilic pigment can be added at the end; to obtain a warmer tone, increase the dosage of the yellow pigment a little, and for a cooler tone, increase the dosage of the red pigment a little. A pearl sheen can be achieved by adding bronze, gold or coral pearl pigment

Reviews

E
Ellemental
15 Jan
Hello Nadia, Upon application, the zinc oxide particles settle on the outermost layer of the skin, providing both medium coverage and sun protection. Due to the covering power of zinc oxide, increasing the amount can lead to an undesirable geisha effect. Since xanthan gum in this recipe must be added to the emulsion at temperatures well above 40 C, replacement with hyaluronic acid is not recommended in this case.
N
Nadia M.
14 Jan
Hello! Can you increase the percentage of zinc oxide to 20% and replace the xanthan gum with hyaluronic acid HMW 1%? Thank you!
A
Andreja L.
27 Apr 2024
Hi, can you repair the recipe? There is written the same red pigment with different dosage 3 times.
A
Andreea V.
10 Apr 2023
Hello! I have been using this foundation for many years. I have very sensitive skin and in the past I was always allergic to commercial products. The newly reformulated recipe is amazing! The texture is very light and feels wonderful on the skin! Thank you so much for all you do!
E
Ellemental
21 Jul 2021
Hello! You can also use another vegetable oil of your choice, preferably one suitable for your skin. All the best!
E
Ellemental
21 Jul 2021
Hello! Increase the quantity of pigments as follows: 0,13 gr red / 0,12 gr black / 0,34 gr yellow.
A
Andreea V.
20 Jul 2021
Hello! What can replace Marula oil? Thank you in advance!
A
Andreea V.
20 Jul 2021
Good morning! What would be the pigment dosage for a medium shade?
R
Renata B.
29 Apr 2021
Thanks!I came back on the preparation,I added 1.5 gr wax that I melted with 1.5 gr.urucum, leaving more time on bain-marie then I added it to the whole preparation, which was already warm waiting,I strained everything warm, then mixed ... it came out great, slightly aerated, very creamy and slightly aerated...
E
Ellemental
27 Apr 2021
Hello! The urucum powder doesn't dissolve completely, you would need to macerate it in marula oil beforehand; see the directions on how to do this in the urucum powder leaflet.
R
Renata B.
27 Apr 2021
Hello, if I want to color with urucum, how much percent of the powder do I add?thank you!
M
Mihalache D.
21 Apr 2021
it's the most successful foundation I've made so far; it's been used by several people, the color is beautiful and uniform, it doesn't stain, it behaves somewhat like a cream, I'm very satisfied
a
adriana ..
23 Mar 2021
Hello. Opinions on using this product? Has anyone used it, how does it behave? Is it ok? Maybe pictures?Thanks!
M
Mihalache D.
05 Oct 2020
thank you kindly
E
Ellemental
01 Oct 2020
Hello! You can add about 0,5-1% depending on your preference. Decrease the water dosage accordingly. Good luck!
M
Mihalache D.
30 Sep 2020
Hello, what percentage should I use of the pearlescent pigment? Do I add it by subtracting from the water in phase B? Thanks
E
Ellemental
24 Jul 2020
Hello! In this recipe we do not recommend replacing the water with floral water as it can influence the pH, which is not what we want in this case. Pure water means either distilled or reverse osmosis filtered water, or still mineral water with as little dry residue as possible (Bucovina, for example).
L
Loredana
23 Jul 2020
Hello. Can pure water be replaced with something else? Like rose water, lavender, linden, lime, etc? Or if not, is it available at the pharmacy? Thanks
E
Ellemental
19 May 2020
The way of working may be the same, optimally you should premix the pigments with the zinc oxide first, and the dosage may need to be adjusted.
m
maria
18 May 2020
thanks for your answer. with normal pigments would the working mode be the same?