Aristo Copolymer
Description
Aristo Copolymer – Gelling Agent, Emulsion Stabilizer
A hydrophilic polymer used in cosmetic formulations as a thickening agent, stabilizer, and textural modifier. It allows for completely transparent hydrogels and the stabilization of Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsions without requiring the addition of an emulsifier. It provides cosmetic preparations with a light texture, possessing rapid melting and spreading capacity on the skin, leaving a dry, non-sticky finish.
Unlike traditional rheology modifiers from the carbomer class, Aristo Copolymer does not require neutralization with a base, developing its maximum viscosity immediately upon complete hydration in an aqueous medium.
Ingredients (INCI): Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer.
Characteristics
- Appearance: Fine white powder, with a discreetly acidic odor.
- Solubility: Soluble in water, hydrosols, and hydroalcoholic mixtures. Dispersible in oily phases.
- Cosmetic function: Thickening agent, emulsion stabilizer, rheological modifier, texturizing agent.
- Indicative dosage: 0.5% - 1.2%. A concentration of 0.5% - 0.8% is suitable for stabilizing light emulsions, while percentages of 1.0% and above are used to obtain dense gels.
- pH Stability: Effective and stable in a pH range between 4.0 and 9.0.
Main Properties
- Rapid Gelling Without Neutralization: Forms clear aqueous gels directly upon dissolution and stirring, without requiring pH corrections with bases.
- Lipid Phase Stabilizer: Allows the suspension and stabilization of up to 15-20% oils or cosmetic esters in gel-cream formulas.
- Elegant Sensory Profile: Modifies emulsion texture, providing a watery feel upon application, rapid absorption, and a non-sticky, velvety finish.
- Alcohol Compatibility: Maintains gel structure in hydroalcoholic solutions containing up to 50% ethanol.
Applications
- Particularly suited for elegant, lightweight formulations.
- Light creams (water creams) for combination, oily, or acne-prone skin.
- Facial serums for all skin types.
- After-sun products and soothing skin gels.
- Gel-creams for the eye contour area, due to its smooth-spreading texture.
- Transparent gel-based hair styling products.
- Hydroalcoholic gels, conductive gels.
Formulation Guide
The rheological sensitivity of this polymer requires adhering to the order of ingredient addition to prevent irreversible liquefaction of the product:
- Methods of Incorporation:
- Preparation of Gels: Sprinkle the powder over the aqueous phase under rapid stirring. Leave to rest for complete hydration, then mix until homogeneous.
- Preparation of Emulsions: Disperse the powder directly into the cold oil phase (vegetable oils or esters). The oil phase is then poured into the aqueous phase under stirring. Gelling occurs as the polymer comes into contact with the water in the mixture.
- Handling Incompatibilities: Do not combine Aristo Copolymer in high percentages with electrolyte-rich ingredients. Avoid simultaneous use with mineral salts, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, concentrated Aloe Vera, or mineral-rich botanical extracts. Adding these will liquefy the gel, turning it into a watery liquid.
Storage: Keep in a closed package, in a dry and cool place. For cosmetic use only.
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