Polysorbate 20

Code	Size	Net price	Total price
M-1624-0.1	100 g	€3.08	€3.66
M-1624-1	1 kg	€11.23	€13.36
M-1624-5	5 kg	€43.68	€51.98

Description

Polysorbate 20 – The Essential Solubilizer for Clear and Homogeneous Aqueous Formulas

Polysorbate 20 is a non-ionic, hydrophilic surfactant derived from lauric acid and sorbitol. It is primarily used as a dispersing agent and solubilizer for essential oils, cosmetic fragrances, and oily substances in aqueous bases. Due to its gentleness and ability to maintain solution transparency, it allows for the creation of various products, from delicate facial toners to room sprays, without requiring the use of alcohol as a solvent.

Ingredients: Polysorbate 20.

Characteristics

Appearance: Viscous liquid, yellowish color.
Solubility: Completely water-soluble, dispersible in oils.
HLB: Approximately 16.7 (strongly hydrophilic).
Origin: Derived from vegetable fatty acids (lauric) and sorbitol, subjected to an ethoxylation process to achieve solubilization properties.

Main Properties

Efficient Solubilizer: Allows the mixing of essential oils and fragrances into water while maintaining the clarity of the finished solution.
Texture Agent and Co-Emulsifier: Helps stabilize oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions and improves product spreadability on the skin.
Antistatic Effect: Used in hair products, it reduces static and facilitates detangling.
Gentleness: Considered a non-irritating surfactant, it is often used in formulations for the eyes (removers) or sensitive skin due to its safe dermatological profile.
Surface Tension Modifier: Improves skin hydration and the penetration of other active ingredients.

Usage Recommendations

General recommended dosage: 1% - 20%, depending on the application.
For solubilizing essential oils or fragrances, a ratio of 1:1 up to 1:4 is usually used (one part oil to 1-4 parts Polysorbate 20). The exact amount is established through testing, gradually adding solubilizer until the mixture becomes clear upon the addition of water.

Applications

Facial toners, lotions, and micellar waters.
Body sprays, water-based perfumes, and body mists.
Cleansing products: shampoos, shower gels, and biphasic makeup removers.
Room sprays and aromatherapy (alcohol-free).
Hair conditioners and detangling sprays.

Formulation Guide

Procedure: Always mix Polysorbate 20 with the essential oil or fragrance before adding the water. Homogenize the two oily components well, then pour the water in a thin stream while stirring continuously.
Temperature: Usually used at room temperature. If the formula requires heating, it is stable up to 70-80°C.
pH Range: Stable within a pH range of 5.0 to 8.0.
Technical tip: If the final solution is milky or cloudy, it means a larger amount of Polysorbate 20 is required to completely solubilize the oils.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Is Polysorbate 20 a natural ingredient?
It is partially derived from natural sources (lauric acid from coconut and sorbitol), but the manufacturing process involves ethoxylation, making it a synthetic ingredient accepted in conventional cosmetics, but not in strict organic ones.

What is the difference between Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80?
Polysorbate 20 is preferred for solubilizing small amounts of light oils (essential oils/fragrances) in water, while Polysorbate 80 is stronger and used for larger amounts of fatty vegetable oils.

Can it cause irritation?
Polysorbate 20 is one of the gentlest surfactants in its class, frequently used in "tear-free" baby shampoos. It is recommended to follow the suggested dosages.

Safety in Use

Profile: Safe ingredient, compatible with most cosmetic ingredients.
Precautions: Exclusively for cosmetic use. Do not ingest. Avoid direct contact with eyes in pure form. Keep out of reach of children.
Storage: Store in the original packaging, in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight.

Bibliography and Sources

Technical documentation and information provided by the Manufacturer.
CosIng - European Commission Database for Cosmetic Substances and Ingredients.
Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products.

Details

Code

D-1624

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Chloe H.

31 Dec 2025

I bought polysorbate 20 to make a cleansing gel with salicylic acid. I'm planning to use it with propylene glycol, so that stabilize the salicylic acid so it doesn't redistribute. I haven't made it yet, but I'm looking forward to use it.

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G A.

10 Dec 2024

I bought it to make my own essential oil scents without alcohol, just water based. It's perfect for that!

I

Ioana M.

23 Sep 2024

As they say, cheap and good! A universally easy to work with compared to all natural solubilizers, makes clear aqueous solutions ,no hassle, doesn't foam excessively. I recommend!